The StyleZeitgeist Guide to Paris: 2025 Edition

On some level writing a guide to Paris is an exercise in futility. What can one write about a city where you can get a good glass of wine and a decent meal in so many places – as long as you stay away from the touristy areas – and where there is no such thing as the best bakery. Therefore, this guide to Paris is the guide to what I have gotten to know over the years of traveling to the City of Light.

I’ve been to Paris about fifty times, I’ve walked it back and forth, and I know I am not nearly close to discovering all the goodies it has to offer and have not sufficiently explored all of its neighborhoods (for example, I rarely find myself in Montmartre, or in Charonne). I’ve not been to the 20th arrondissement, which is where the epicenter of hipsterdom has moved to. I have not yet been to the Catacombs (very ungoth of me), and I’ve never had any luck record shopping in Paris.

Nevertheless, I think I have gotten a pretty good handle on the city, and I am happy to share it with you.

EAT

One of the best thing to do in Paris is eating simply. French produce will make you weep and want to move to Paris. The quality of produce is great, the meat is fantastic, the dairy divine, and the bread unparalleled. If weather allows, go to one of the farmers markets, like the one above Bastille or on Boulevard Raspail, buy a bunch of gorgeous vegetables, cheeses, pates, wine, and go to a park and devour it all. But if you can’t, here are a bunch of restaurants for you. Be warned, quite a few are Japanese, since Paris has a serious love affair with Japanese cuisine.

Bambino

Loosely inspired by Tokyo’s vinyl bars, this drinks and small plates spot is an open secret for a reason. Absolutely fantastic food and natural wines. Come at the opening on the dot or you will be waiting in line among the young and the hip.

Brasserie du Louvre

It is not easy to get a good meal this close to the Louvre because of all the tourist traps. But this classic from chef Paul Bocuse, located inside of Hotel de Louvre, delivers on all fronts, from the wine to the food to the service.

Breizh Cafe

One of the best creperies in Paris where you get real buckwheat galettes and not the tourist-aimed trash. The Marais location is always packed but the St. Germain one is quite chill. Be warned though, you’ll be giving your money to Francois Pinault.

Brutos

The 11th has long been a stalwart of hipster innovative cuisine. There is a series number of good restaurants. Go to Brutos for the outstanding Sunday only whole roasted chicken lunch. Bring a friend and come hungry.

Comptoir de la Mer, Comptoir de la Terre, L’Avant Comptoir

This trio of counter-seating restaurants have turned one section of St. Germain into a glorious foodie haven. It’s wine- and small plates-driven, so get a glass or a bottle and follow up with food. I’m partial to Comptoir de la Mer, because in Paris it’s much easier to get good meat than seafood, but it’s all outstanding.

Cravan

You don’t have to look far for good wine in Paris, but a good cocktail is another matter. This is my favorite bar, and now they have opened one in St. Germain, so you don’t have to schlep to the original in the 16th, though if you can, do. And don’t miss their snacks!

Les Enfants Rouges

This French-Japanese fusion tucked away in a small alley by the Enfants Rouges food market always delivers in terms of both the food and the atmosphere.

French Paradox

Never mind the silly name – this duck palace has the best confit du canard I’ve had in Paris. I mean, that’s what you came to Paris for, right? It’s situated in a lovely arcade right across from the – in my humble opinion – overrated Racines.

L’As du Falafel

Still the best falafel outside of Israel, although because of Instagram now you may have to wait forty minutes to get one. Pro tip – at this point it may be faster to join the much smaller line for eating inside. If you do takeaway, Places des Vosges is within walking distance.

Le Petite Marché

An excellent French restaurant in the heart of Marais but on a back street that makes you feel like you are in another neighborhood. Never not good.

Le Petit Vendome

It is hard to get an honest meal or an excellent sandwich near Place Vendome, whose poshness tends to make one choke on their food. Le Petit Vendome does both – it is mobbed during the day by the local office workers for a reason.

Miznon

If you don’t want to stand in line, go next door to Miznon and get anything they serve in a pita, along with their incredible cauliflower.

Ogata

This stunning Japanese emporium is high on the veritable list of places that T Magazine has unwittingly ruined through overexposure. The prices have gone up and ability to reserve unless far in advance has gone down, but it remains a beautiful restaurant experience nonetheless. If you cannot splurge on a meal, have tea at their tea salon or a drink at the bar, and buy some tea or a ceramic cup from their carefully curated shop.

Sanjo

This is my favorite ramen spot, though I usually prefer pork broth to chicken. But one of their specialties is Tin Tin ramen that has no broth at all. If you go for dinner, their wagyu is to die for.

Siena

If an occasion does call for a fancy meal near Vendome, I recommend Siena. The room is beautiful and the octopus is magical. Reserve in advance on weekdays, as it’s a bit of a power lunch spot.

Soma

This tiny Japanese izakaya is so good that I almost want to do the Parisian thing and not give it away. But my first duty is to you, my audience. Pretty much everything I’ve had on there has always been divine.

Soma Sando

Soma’s sister restaurant is sandwich-driven. Get the first one on the menu, pork sando for a melt-in-your-mouth katsu surrounded by delicious pickled vegetables and wash it down with a Japanese craft beer from Coedo. If you won’t love life after this, there is no hope for you.

 

BAKERIES

A Paris guide without a bakery on it is a crime, so here is a short list, though undoubtedly I’ve left many great bakeries off of it.

Brigat

This may be my favorite bakery in Paris. Amazing croissants and bread. They have a few tables in the back if you need to eat there, or just take the food to Places des Vosges – again – and have yourself a baked goods picnic.

D’Isabelle

Sometimes TikTok is right. Best croissant I’ve had in Paris. Worth standing in line for.

Mamiche

Another fantastic bakery owned by two women, Victoria Effantin and Cécile Khayat, who source their flour locally. Everything I’ve tried is absolutely delicious. There are a couple of branches.

Ten Belles

This is not a typical French bakery with baguettes and croissants. The draw here is whole-wheat bread from local flower, and it is absolutely delicious. You can still get scones and a very good cup of coffee if you are looking for a good breakfast.

 

COFFEE

For the longest time it was hard to get good coffee in Paris, but if find yourself in the Williamsburg parts of Paris – roughly, the 3rd, the 10th, and the 11th arrondissements, there is now an abundance of good coffee spots. Here are a few of them.

Dreamin’ Man

Best coffee in Paris that for some reason draws an inordinate amount of fashion people. It’s become much more popular since they opened the second outpost at the Broken Arm boutique, but I still prefer the rustic feel of the original.

The Coffee

All white and vaguely Japanese in inspiration, there are several branches, equally good. I could do without the gimmicky ordering screens, but it’s a small gripe – the coffee is very good.

Recto Verso

Another good coffee spot in the Marais, of which there are now many.

Arabica %

This growing empire already had one foray into Paris but got into a dispute, and the existing coffee shops in the Panoramas gallery and in St. Germain had to be rebranded, but it’s back now with a pretty shop on the border of Marais and the 11th.

SHOPPING

In the venerable StyleZeitgeist tradition these shops are arranged more or less by walking distance from one another. If you start in the south of St. Germain and slowly go north and work your way up across the Seine river, you’ll be able to hit most of them.

A Balzac, A Rodin

Perhaps my favorite rare art and architecture bookstore in Paris, run by the loveliest father-and-son duo who are passionate about what they do. Digging through its treasure trove is time well-spent. You could find something for $400 or for $40, but it will always be good.

Le Bon Marché

If you go to one department store in Paris, it should be LBM. The rest are lowest common denominator emporiums aimed at tourists (though you should go to La Samaritaine to see the incredible building). LBM, on the other hand, caters mostly to the local St. Germain audience and its assortment shows. Don’t miss their book and stationary department and their epic food market. Its only drawback, again, is that it’s owned by LVMH, just like La Samaritaine.

Hermés

Next to Le Bon Marché is the most unique and my favorite branch of Hermés. It occupies a former swimming pool, which dictates its unusual layout. It also has a small cafe, and yes, it will be expensive, but served in a Hermés cup and is worth a treat. There is also a small book corner. I have not bought books there, but I imagine if you do, you still get to walk out with that orange bag.

Delpire

This bookshop from the publisher Delpire, who happens to be Sarah Moon’s husband, is a gem of a space tucked away behind the Saint-Germain-des-Prés abbey. A good selection of photo books, including those by Moon, and good photo exhibits.

Librairie 7L

Karl Lagerfeld’s bookstore is also a must. It’s very well curated, in part because Lagerfeld had a very special relationship with Steidl, one of the best photo book publishers in the world. You may notice a smoked glass door while you are there; this used to be an entry to Lagerfeld’s office.

Dries Van Noten

The three Dries Van Noten shops– women’s, mens, and beauty – are adjacent to each on Quai Malaquais, facing the Seine. All are lovely jewel boxes that are absolutely worth a visit.

Rick Owens

Owens’s first boutique is in Palais Royal and is worth a visit for its assortment and for that statue that was first of many. It is now twice the sizes of the original space, and I still find it charming in its own way.

L’Eclaireur Rue Herold

If you read StyleZeitgeist, you probably know it already, but if you don’t, this is the OG spot for the fashion avant-garde. It is one of the biggest stockists for Carol Christian Poell, Paul Harnden, and Boris Bidjan Saberi, among others.

Mad et Len

The StyleZeitgeist universe is incomplete without a Mad et Len black iron candle or one of their wonderful perfumes. As a matter of fact one of their best-sellers, Asphalt & Rose in a candle, and Apocalypstick in perfume, was originally created for our tenth anniversary. Their only boutique in the beautiful Gallerie Vivienne is a little world unto its own.

Nose

If you are looking to buy a perfume or a candle in Paris and don’t want to go to multiple stores, this is your spot, a short walk from Mad et Len. An excellent curation of niche perfumery.

Galerie Yvon Lambert

I swear it’s the last book shop on this list. Listen, be happy that I did not put Ofr on it, though you should probably go there too, especially if you are looking for magazines.

Perfumer H

Lyn Harris’s perfumery has become one of my favorites, and its lower Marais boutique is a lovely glimpse into her universe.

SEE

Paris is a treasure trove of museums and sights. I’m omitting the most obvious museums here, such as the Louvre, Musée D’Orsay, and Centre George Pompidou, for the obvious reason that you should obviously visit them.

Jardin de Luxembourg

My favorite park in central Paris, prettier than the plainer and far more touristy Jardin Tulieri. Always worth a stroll or a picnic in good weather.

Place des Vosges

This lovely square in Marais is a hidden gem. Remember what I told you about picnicking.

Museé Galliera

Paris’s fashion museum that does a consistently excellent job curating major fashion exhibits.

Palais de Tokyo / Musee d’art Moderne de Paris

Across from Galliera are a pair of museums worth visiting, and I really should not be lumping them together, but they are literally across from each other. The museum of modern art does not need much introduction, because it is what it is. Palais de Tokyo is a fun place though, with an excellent bookshop, cafe, and restaurant, and is worth spending some time in. And you can see the amazing courtyard where Rick Owens stages all of his spring/summer shows.

Foundation Azzedine Alaia

After Alaia passed away, the building that housed his studio was turned into a foundation. It contains a charming exhibition space, a cafe, and a bookshop. The clincher is that the foundation kept Alaia’s studio intact, and you can look into it through a window now, a touching site.

Atelier Brancusi

If you go to Pompidou, and even if you don’t go to Pompidou, don’t miss the Constantin Brancusi Studio that sits on the edge of the museum’s complex. It is a faithful recreation of the atelier complete with many statues, instruments, and ephemera. It’s never crowded and it has become my personal oasis, where you can sit on the bench and meditate on Brancusi’s modernist masterpieces.