THE STYLEZEITGEIST GUIDE TO LONDON: 2024 EDITION

I love London to pieces, and if I don’t go once a year I fee like something is amiss. One of my personal traditions is to visit London over Thanksgiving and take the lit up, pre-Christmas city in. What I love about London specifically is its deep sense of history, the reverence for it that imbues the city, from its architecture to the blue plaques commemorating residency of historic figures, to the seals of royal family approval proudly displayed on shop’s facades. There is something assuring and endearing in its sense of continuity with the past for a New Yorker. New York has little sense of history – by and large we bulldoze the old in favor of the new and don’t think much about it. You can’t buy a book in New York in a shop that’s been there for two hundred years. You can in London.

Nevertheless, the pervading historicism does not preclude London from feeling like a global hive of modern activity that it is. I find this balance striking – London is a city where you can run around in a frenzy of Oxford street but also turn a corner and take respite in a park that feels all yours. Also, they have a functioning subway system.

Unlike New York, London is much more spread out – a collection of villages that feel unique. For the reasons I’ve outlined above I will for the most part concentrate on central London. London is the one city in which I groan when a friend inevitably sets an appointment in the hipster East End. I have enough of that in New York, I want to tell them. I don’t need to see the overpriced, sterilized Shoreditch – I have Williamsburg for that. What I want to see is what we don’t have in New York – an elderly gentleman in a top coat, a bowler hat, and New Balance sneakers on a Mayfair corner, breakfast at the Wolseley, the groaning of the wooden steps at the Hatchards book store, or the soft light streaming from the skylight at Daunt Books. (Don’t fret; I will still include some East London recommendations.)

London is a pleasure to stroll in. Therefore I have structured the first part of this guide imagines two walks. The first one is a meandering stroll from Regents Park down to London’s center. In reality I recommend doing this walk over two days. The second walk is centered around a handful of museums. That is followed by random things all over the place worth checking out.

WALK I (CENTRAL LONDON)

MARYLEBONE

I recommend starting your walk from the top of the Primrose Hill, more precisely from the house where Friedrich Engels lived. Head down the hill, cross a road and continue down the hill and on through Regents Park (which I find lovelier than Hyde Park). You’ll want to aim your exit from the bottom of the park onto the Marylebone High Street. 

If it’s still breakfast time in your mind, a detour to the Boxcar Bakery is worth it. If you are hungry for lunch, the Austrian restaurant Fischer’s offers a throwback in time – when I dined there I was the only person under fifty, which was pretty wonderful. If not, continue down Marylebone High until you hit Daunt Books. This Edwardian shop’s decor is one of the best – all oak wood and wonderful ornate windows. It originally specialized in travel literature and many books are still ordered by region (so you won’t find Dostoyevsky next to Dante).

The rest of the Marylebone High Street is what you’d expect – a host of little shops for the well-to-do, but its architecture is absolutely charming. If you are feeling fancy and have more stomach than I do for glossy-looking people you can detour to the Chiltern Firehouse, a former fire station turned into a posh hotel by Andre Balazs, of the Chateau Marmont and the Standard Hotel fame, and have a drink or lunch there. You’ll want to spend some time in Chiltern Street regardless. That one block is chockful of wonderful things, including an Air Mail and a Monocle cafe. First, make sure to stop in at Perfumer H. Founded by Lyn Harris, of the Miller Harris fame, it’s one of the best independent perfumeries today. Their candles are killer, too, and you can bring the hand-blown glass vessel back for a refill. (If you have time, do schlep seven minutes or so to their original flagship. The boutique’s mid-century decor is a gift in its own right.) Then there is Niwaki, the Japanese hardware / gardening store. But what you are here for is the best London fashion boutique you’ve never heard of, Mouki Mou. It is expertly curated with understated brands like Casey Casey, Toogood, and the Tokyo cult favorite Arts & Science, And don’t miss their newly opened, and absolutely beautiful, menswear store on the same block, M2, which carries clothes by Auralee and objects by Michael Verheyden, amongst other things. Around the corner is also a branch of Labour & Wait, the iconic home goods store favored by Rei Kawakubo.

From Chiltern Street, make sure you pop down to the Zetter Marylebone for coffee / snack / drink – or better yet, their brilliant seasonal afternoon tea. The Zetter is a small hotel with a charming (charming will be the word I use a lot in this guide) parlor downstairs. It’s an oasis that few people seem to know about, and all my London friends I drag there are happy to discover something cozy this close to Oxford Street. In any case, you will need something that contains either caffeine or alcohol before you hit Selfridges. I hesitate to recommend any department store, but I think it’s worth a visit. In the men’s designer department you’ll find Rick Owens, Craig Green, Undercover, and Boris Bidjan Saberi – it also has a forward-looking fragrance section.

MAYFAIR

Exit Selfridges onto Oxford Street and cross as soon as possible onto the other side to avoid consumer hell, and you’ll be rewarded soon by some of the most charming streets in all of London. Walk down to Mount Street and walk its entire length until the Connaught Hotel (doesn’t get more London than this), taking in the Queen Anne revival style architecture and more fancy shops (lots of fancy shops in London). Don’t miss the recently opened London branch of Apparatus, whose lighting and objects have become some of the most desirable in the interior design world. Double-back and through an easy to miss entrance to the Mount Street Gardens. Take a breather there, it’s worth it, and then come out to the South Audley Street. Should you fancy a beer in a beautiful pub, I recommend the Audley Public House.

You may have little money left by now, but perhaps enough for a shaving cream. A note on male grooming – London is still a place that caters to gentlemen. Forget all the hipster stuff with all its faux traditionalism – the best stuff is in London and that’s where I shop for all my shaving needs. They’ve been doing it for hundreds of years, and doing it well. So, continue onto Curzon St, and at Number 9 enter the original branch of Geo F. Trumper that’s been in business since 1875 (fun fact, that’s what Dries Van Noten uses himself and sells in his boutique in Antwerp.). The shop itself is a time machine that will transport you to the year of the brand’s founding. You can buy everything from a shaving cream to a brush gift set to a walking stick, and even get a traditional shave (by appointment) if you are feeling fancy. As far as products, I am particularly partial to their Eucris range – the entire world should smell like that as far as I am concerned.

After satisfying your grooming needs, you may want to dip into the absolutely charming Shepherds Market, with several shops and lovely eateries. Two of my favorites are Kitty Fisher’s and the Mayfair branch of Noble Rot (you are not allowed to leave London without eating there). Come back out the way you got in and continue through Berkeley Square, Burton Lane and Burton Street until you hit New (which quickly turns into Old) Bond Street. Though if you fancy an art detour, I highly suggest checking out what’s on in the blue chip art galleries of the area – Gagosian, David Zwirner, Hauser & Wirth, and Saatchi and Yates.

New / Old Bond Street is your regular Fifth Avenue, with all the double-fancy shops. It’s worth a stroll for the architecture and the shop windows. Make a right onto it and walk a few blocks until Vigo Street, make a left and see if there is a good exhibit at the Royal Academy of Arts, stroll past and hit the Saville Row. Here you come to the center of the Earth as far as suit-making is concerned. And even though you won’t be getting a custom-made suit, I invite you to just stroll it. It feels nice to know that there are still artisans making bespoke suits in this plastic world of ours. Just take it in and be happy it exists. Double back to the Royal Academy and stroll through the Burlington Arcade. A word on arcades – something we don’t have in New York, so absolutely a must to experience – they are basically little lovely tunnels of small shops. There used to be many more of them and Walter Benjamin dedicated a goddamn 900-page book to those of Paris, so you better visit.

At the other end of the Burlington arcade you will emerge onto the Picaddilly (you can also browse the shops Picaddilly Arcade) and behold the great Fortnum & Mason. And yes, it’s a cliche, but for a reason, so buy some tea, jam, and biscuits (that’s cookies in American) to take home, or some Christmas ornaments if you are in season. Next to Fortnum’s is my other favorite bookstore, Hatchards, which has been in business since 1797.

ST. JAMES / HAYMARKET

Loop around Fortnum’s and you will end up on Jermyn Street. This is another lovely London lane known for its shirtmakers. What you’ll want though is another grooming shop, Taylor of Old Bond St (est. 1854). You will want their Luxury Aftershave Cream for Sensitive Skin. It’s divine. Also, if you didn’t have enough time to pop into the Geo F. Trumper in Mayfair, they have a branch here as well, just a much humbler one. Bear right until you get to St. James Street. Turn left there for more gentleman-friendly shops, including the traditional grooming emporiums D.R. Harris and Truefitt & Hill, and Lock & Co., London’s oldest surviving hat maker.

If you’ve had enough of history, double back and walk to the Eastern end of Jermyn St, cross over Haymarket and make a right and you’ll hit the London branch of Dover Street Market. I imagine you are well familiar with the concept – this branch is my favorite out of all I’ve been to, and the only stockist for Paul Harnden in London.

SOHO

From Dover Street Market you can make your way up to SoHo through the theater district. If you are immune to crowds, you can walk though Piccadilly Circus, though I prefer the back lanes. A long long time ago in a galaxy far away SoHo was cool. Now, just like in New York, it’s mostly an outdoor shopping mall. However, there are plenty of excellent places to eat and drink there. If you are Ok with no frills and much history, the pub you’ll want to visit is the French House. If you are feeling fancy, then I suggest Nopi, the restaurant from the Israeli chef wizard Yotam Ottolenghi. You can also go to the department store Liberty, though to be honest if you just look at how pretty it is from the outside, that should be good enough.

This concludes your tour of Central London.

WALK II (MUSEUMS)

In reality you won’t be able to hit all of the museums at once, so you may also want to do this one over a two-day period.

Tate Modern – I know you know, but, you know… it’s a must and I suggest you start your morning here by taking whatever mode of public transportation you can (I prefer the bus). In addition to a fantastic permanent collection of modern and contemporary art, there is an excellent bookshop, a good restaurant, and a great observation deck.

Cross the river back to the north shore via the Millennium bridge (for the nerds and parents with small children – that’s the one that was blown up by the Death Eaters in the 6th Harry Potter film).

Loop around the St. Paul cathedral (go in if you don’t mind paying 20 quid) and continue onto Ludgate Hill, which turns into Fleet Street, which turns into the Strand. You will probably be hungry by then, so treat yourself to fish and chips and a pint at the Punch Tavern, named in honor of the staff of the iconic / iconoclastic London satire magazine, who would hit the pub after (and during) their workday in its mid-19th Century heyday.

After being fortified, continue on Fleet street until you pass the Gothic architecture Royal Courts. Here you have two choices. If you are feeling full of energy, you can head into Lincoln Inn’s Fields in Holborn for the two museums below, or you can continue onto the Strand.

The Hunterian – this absolute gem of a museum attached to the Royal College of Surgeons of England was supposed to reopen after an extensive renovation in 2020, but we all know how that went. It is now slated to reopen late 2022, so make a mental note. The museum has an astounding collection of vintage surgical instruments, anatomical models, and other cabinet-of-curiosities fare.

Sir John Soane’s Museum – in Lincoln’s Inn Fileds, a stone throw away from the Hunterian is a small museum based on the private collection of Sir John Soane, the British architect who died in 1837. Soane was a living testament that even in 18th Century England a person of talent and passionate curiosity could move up in the world. The son of a bricklayer, he showed aptitude and diligence and was awarded the Gold Medal for Architecture at the Royal Academy, where he later taught. An avid collector of painting, drawings, and objects, he left quite a treasure chest in his house that was turned into a museum. It’s not as impressive as the Hunterian, but still very much worth a visit.

If you choose not to detour, then check out the following.

180 The Strand – This is a new space, close to the Somerset House that’s a bit younger and trendier. Worth a visit if there is a good exhibit, but keep walking on if not.

Somerset House – just another palace turned into a museum, you know, no big deal (in London). The lovely courtyard is a major draw where you can have a coffee outside in the summer or go ice-skating in the winter. There is a decent cafe and a Rizzoli book shop attached.

A detour, but The Barbican, the cultural center housed in a sprawling brutalist complex has it all – a museum, a symphony, a theater, and a cinema – and is worth checking out. The architecture is as much of a draw as the cultural program, and I highly recommend taking their architectural tour.

FOOD / DRINK

The first time I went to London in 2001 the food was still notoriously dreadful. Since then London has undergone a complete food renaissance and is one of the best cities to eat in the world. Below is a smattering of my favorite places.

PUBS

High on the list of things I would never do in New York but would in London is going to a pub. If the word conjures up the horrible Manhattan Irish pubs with bad food, worse people, and too many TV screens, I understand, but trust me, pubs in London are (or at least can be) nothing of the sort. English is a drinking culture and the pub is the great equalizer in a country where class divisions are still very much alive. Everyone goes to the pub, from the smartly dressed Chelsea bourgeoisie to the Shoreditch hipsters to the working class.

Do some research, but If you find a proper historical pub, you will be transformed back in time – they are beautiful inside and out. Second, more often than not the food will be great, on par with many restaurants. And I’m down for a plate of fish and chips or bangers and mash any time.

In addition to the Punch Tavern mentioned above one of my favorites is the Spaniards Inn in Hampstead. Founded in 16th Century and reportedly frequented by Charles Dickens. Go for the Sunday roast if you can get a table. It’s very much worth the travel. And the new hot addition to the London gastropub scene is The Pelican in Notting Hill, which is really a restaurant masquerading as a pub. The room is gorgeously clean and both the food and the drink are outstanding.

RESTAURANTS / CAFES

OTTOLENGHI –The Israeli-born chef Yotam Ottolenghi has gone mainstream, and neither are his mini-chain of cafes and his NOPI restaurant (mentioned above). But they are still good. My favorite branch is in Islington (the neighborhood equivalent of Carroll Gardens) with its long communal table. Not all cafes have seating, or in some it’s extremely limited, so go off-hours or on a nice day where you can take the take-out to a park.

THE PALOMAR – Continuing with the Israeli theme, this is one of my favorite places to eat in London. The Mediterranean flavors just burst in your mouth. Reservations are a must, or do the London thing – put your name on the list, go have a pint somewhere around the corner and they’ll eventually squeeze you in at the counter.

THE BARBARY – More of the same, more of the wonderful. Phenomenal Middle Eastern food that plays wonders with your taste buds. I recommend the newly opened Notting Hill branch, which is much bigger than the snug original in Neal’s Yard.

LA PETITE MAISON – If you decide to have one upscale meal in London, have it in this brilliant French restaurant. Why would you want to eat French food in London? Because I’ve never had French food this good in Paris.

THE WOLSELEY – This is a London institution that was born in 2003, when London’s food was still bad. Done in the Parisian Grand Cafe style, its decor is epic. The painter Lucian Freud had his own table there, so, yeah.

NOBLE ROT – located in Bloomsbury, the historic hotbed of intellectual activity, this wine bar serves fantastic food in an intimate setting. Enough said. There are also branches in Mayfair and SoHo, if you want to be a bit more central.

ELLIOT’S – There are many places to eat at the Borough Market. You may never get out alive. But should you want a proper sit-down meal, I recommend this restaurant. It’s one of the many fantastic spots that have lead the small plates London dining revolution.

BERNERS TAVERN – My go-to brunch spot. Come for the stunning dining room inside the Edition hotel, and leave with a belly full of stellar shakshuka. Maintain philosophical distance from the rest of the patrons and remember that you can’t have it all.

KURO EATERY – If you need a spot for casual but excellent breakfast or lunch in Notting Hill, I highly recommend Kuro for both for the fantastic food and the clean decor. The crispy eggs are divine. They also have a coffee spot next door and a bakery around the corner.

SHOPPING

These are mostly clothes and books, because I don’t know what else a person needs. Records, I suppose, but I’ve never had much luck buying vinyl in London. Sorry.

BLUE MOUNTAIN SCHOOL – The sprawling four-floor complex in Shoreditch that began as Hostem is quite an experience – a clothing store with huge selections of Geoffrey B. Small and m.a.+, an art gallery, and a top-floor private dining restaurant, and a dedicated space for Perfumer H, should you not make it to their central London boutique.

THE LIBRARY – In case you want to buy Carol Christian Poell in London, this is it. Also, around the corner is a better branch of the aforementioned Conran Shop housed in a former Michelin tire building, which is certainly worth a look for its somewhere in-between Art Deco and Art Nouveau style.

JAMES SMITH & SONS – There is no London without an umbrella, right? You can find one in this amazing historic shop. Go even if you don’t buy anything.

HOUSMANS – Yes, it’s weird that most of the time I write about expensive clothing while holding socialist views. Deal with it. For the commie in you there is no better place than this bookshop, whose tag is “Radical Booksellers Since 1945.” Lots of theory and philosophy here.

ARTWORDS – a small and well-curated art book shop that’s certainly worth a visit.

DONLON BOOKS – an expertly curated rare book shop. A must if you can get yourself to Broadway Market.

NOVEMBER BOOKS – another bookstore with a great selection. It’s located in Cecil Court, which itself is an absolute gem of a throwback to better days of printed matter and is worth exploring. If your hunger for books is not satisfied, you can also go around the corner to hunt at Any Amount of Books.

PRACTICAL TIPS

Just like in New York you can pay for public transportation with your phone. As a matter of fact the reason you can do so in New York is because the MTA hired the guy who created this system in London to make this happen.

TAKE THE BUS – New Yorkers never take the bus because a New York bus is its own special kind of slow-moving hell. Not so in London. The double-deckers have their own dedicated lanes and the stops are spread out, so you can zoom through the city pretty quickly. Plus, it’s a fantastic way to watch the city life go by.

TAKE THE UNDERGROUND – Above and beyond the crappy New York subway. Yes, it will be crowded, but the next train will come in two minutes.

TAKE THE ELIZABETH LINE FROM HEATHROW – If you are landing in Heathrow, take the recently opened Elizabeth metro line, which will get you to central London in half an hour. Amazing, civilization.

MUSEUMS ARE FREE – Most major London museums are free. You just walk right in. The special exhibits you will have to pay for, but you can see the permanent collections for free. Again, highly civilized.