THE STYLEZEITGEIST GUIDE TO KYOTO

To say that Kyoto is a magical city is like saying that Francis Bacon is a great artist – neither words nor pictures can relate the firsthand experience. The feeling of peace that washes over you as you stroll the zen gardens or feel the wooden floors of Buddhist temples creak under your unshod feet. Even the hordes of tourists cannot spoil the experience if you are in the right mindset. There is no season when Kyoto is not full of visitors, or at least I have not experienced it. There are ways to avoid them somewhat by visiting the smaller temples, but no way to avoid them by visiting the bigger ones, but visit them you must, at least on your first trip. But you would also be missing out if you viewed Kyoto as just a temple destination; exploring its rich fabric of shops, restaurants, and a maze of architecture is a joy in itself. If you want to do it right, you’d probably need a week or so.

I divide this guide roughly into central and North Kyoto to minimize time spent getting around the city. Kyoto is bigger than it seems, so I highly suggest mapping out your routes. Also, because everything is open Friday – Sunday, when it’s most touristy, many businesses are closed during the week on random days, so check on Google maps, their websites, or their Instagram accounts.

In this guide there will be more ceramics shops rather than clothing, since most likely you’ll do most of your clothes shopping in Tokyo. The few clothing shops I recommend carry the stuff you cannot easily find elsewhere. I also include a couple of smaller, less visited temples, as the main ones can be easily found.

I offer a selection of restaurants, but you will note the absence of bars. It’s not because there are no good bars in Kyoto, but because I am usually exhausted by dinner time. Sorry.

CENTRAL KYOTO:

Art

KYOTO CITY KYOCERA MUSEUM OF ART – this splendid museum dedicated to Japanese craft went through a total renovation a short while ago, and is worth a visit as much for the building itself as for its beautiful collection.

KANJIRO’S HOUSE – a perfectly preserved traditional house (machiya) / workshop of one of Japan’s great ceramicists is a joy to behold, a testament to the beauty of Japanese craftsmanship.

Temples

KOMYOIN – a lovely temple with a beautiful garden and a tea house where you can have a nice bowl of matcha and a sweet while overlooking a traditional zen garden.

Shops – ceramic

ESSENCE – this small gallery near the Kyocera Art Museum should probably be your first stop, as their selection of ceramics by Japanese artisans is consistently excellent, as is their selection of teas.

POJ – housed in a machiya in Highashiyama, this carefully curated gallery has a bit of everything and is absolutely worth a visit.

KYO AMAHARE – another expertly curated ceramics and housewares gallery that sells everything from cups to iron kettles. There is also a tea room framed by a zen garden that is absolutely worth a visit (reserve in advance).

HIGASHIYA / OGATA – the Ogata empire keeps growing, and we are here for it. This Kyoto branch is in the newly opened (and very expensive) Shinmonzen hotel renovated by Tadao Ando. Buy some exquisite pottery, tea, and sweets, and / or have an afternoon tea in a tranquil space overlooking a lovely canal.

Shops – clothing

T.T. – Taiga Takashi’s Kyoto store in Gion is a wonder to behold. The interior is beautiful, and so are his workwear-inspired, roomily cut menswear that blends fine and rough natural fabrics.

AMPLAMP – a small boutique that has a carefully curated selection of Japanese menswear brands like Buzz Rickson and NAME. I did not get to visit its sister store, PROPHET, but I imagine it is equally as good.

BARD – this is one of those small stores that exist all over Japan that you wonder about how they exist carrying five-ten brands. It has a nice selection of Paul Harnden, Guidi, Casey Casey, and a few other brands.

ARTS & SCIENCE – Sonya Park’s mini-empire of impeccably curated shops is well-represented in Tokyo with five small, exquisite stores carrying its own clothing line plus household objects. You know those stores that are so well-done that you want to buy everything, regardless of whether you need it or not? A&S is one of them.

Shops – other

HOSOO – this historic family-run fabric business does some of the most mind-blowing textiles I’ve ever seen, and the likes of Gucci and LVMH have already noticed them. Their flagship gallery is in Kyoto and is absolutely worth a visit.

Y & SONS – this company specializes in traditional Japanese mens dress made from absolutely stunning fabrics mostly developed in house. If you ever wanted a haori jacket, this is the place to go. They also collaborate with brands like Graphpaper and Norwegian Rain. Even if you are not interested in buying one, it’s absolutely worth a visit, as there are beautiful bags, scarves, and knitwear mixed in with the more traditional offerings.

MEDIA SHOP – an expertly well-curated bookshop concentration on art, photography, interior design, and architecture. There is also an art gallery on the second floor.

NAKAGAWA MASASHICHI SHOTEN – hailing from Nara, this is one of those stores where you go in and realize there is all this lovely stuff that you never knew you needed. It’s also a prefect stop for buying omiyage, the small gifts that you bring back from Japan for your friends and family.

ANGERS – another general goods store full of socks, scarves, notebooks, and pens that will make your life complete.

Restaurants

SUGARI RAMEN – it is rather silly to look for the “best” ramen in Japan, because it ranges from good to fabulous, unless you are in an obviously super touristy area. I like this spot as much for its impeccable restaurant design as for their ramen, which you will be eating out of hammered metal bowls.

ISAMI SUSHI – this shockingly inexpensive sushi spot run by a master-chef father and his son may not have one of those mind-bending cuts of fish at those $150 omakase restaurants, but it’s excellent nonetheless and utterly charming in its unpretentiousness.

DUPREE – if you want to eat nothing but Japanese food in Kyoto, I understand, but you will also be missing out. This French restaurant is absolutely outstanding, from its lovely interior, to their excellent collection of jazz records, to the exquisite food and a beautiful selection of natural wines.

KI KYOTO – this Mediterranean spot is excellent from start to finish.

VERMILLION CAFE – two things are not easy to find in Japan, a full Western style breakfast and vegan / vegetarian food. Vermillion Cafe does both well, and its outside space overlooks a beautiful pond. The spot has been blown and it’s full of gaijin, not least because it’s next to Fushimi Inari shrine, but that has not compromised the experience. Most people will order the excellent Vermillion breakfast plate here, but don’t sleep on their amazing hummus with seasonal vegetables and other vegetable-centered offerings.

Coffee / Tea

Just like with ramen, looking for the best cup of coffee in Japan is useless. Even their Starbuck is pretty damn good. So if you see an indie spot with a good coffee machine, just go. Nevertheless, I’m throwing in a few of my favorites.

SOT – a small independent roastery in Higashiyama that serves an excellent cup of coffee and sells its own beans.

FUKU ROASTERY – even smaller than SOT, with just a couple of tiny benches, run by a true coffee fanatic who roasts beans from from all over the world right behind the tiny counter. Some beans are roasted with whisky, rum, and sake. You should come here if you are a pour-over fan – this is not a latte spot. And you will most likely end up buying beans for your home.

Blue Bottle Higashiyama – Tokyo and Kyoto has no shortage of beautiful Blue Bottle locations, but this was my favorite. It will be crowded and full of tourists, but worth it if you are in the area.

0MA – it’s a bit out of the way, but it’s an unforgettable tea ceremony experience run by a young master who refurbished a machiya that is zen beyond zen.

NORTHERN KYOTO:

Shops

MITTAN – this Kyoto-based brand mixes the traditional and the modern, with roomy, comfortable clothing made from natural materials. They also make beautiful blankets.

STARDUST KANA – you should come here for the beautifully rustic cafe that serves lovely cakes and tea, which you will need to reserve, and stay for the small selection of clothing by the likes of Mittan and Jan-Jan Van Essche, as well as their fantastic Chinese tea selection. They also have an art gallery nearby called Elbereth.

KAMISOE – this tiny shop that specializes in karakami, the traditional art of hand printing decorative paper using woodblocks, sells almost nothing, but it’s a really special place. You will want their hand-made greeting cards, which you will use for very special occasions.

Temples

Kinkakuji – The Golden Pavillion is touristy but worth visiting. It’s absolutely stunning.

Restaurants

AMAN LIVING PAVILLION – frankly I hesitate to recommend it, because the food is 7 out of 10 and expensive, but it is a way to experience a glimpse of Aman if you want to. You will be dining in a beautiful room and can enjoy a partial view of the property. During my lunch, the dessert was the best part, so you are probably better off doing an afternoon tea there, but you’ll need to reserve far in advance. I’ve also heard good things about Aman’s onsen, which is open to the public.

KUSHIAGE OMOTO – deep-fried food on sticks? Technically, yes, but one that makes for an amazing course-meal in a lovely spot run by a husband and wife duo, with a small but excellent sake selection. It’s one of those intimate experiences you won’t forget, starting with a salad that will remind you what vegetables should really taste like and ending with excellent dessert.

Kyoto Hotels

Like with everything else, I am only recommending the hotels I’ve stayed in. I love staying in Higashiyama, as it is both central enough and out of the way enough, so it is quiet and largely devoid of tourists.

TASSEL HOTEL – a lovely, inexpensive hotel in Higashiyama that is almost too good to be true for the prices they charge. Spotlessly clean, comfortable, with the breakfast room overlooking a small canal.

JUNMEI HIGASHIYAMA – a bit pricier than Tassel, but an absolutely gorgeous experience worth every penny and then some. The rooms are spacious, beautiful, and all come with an onsen. Impeccable service and you will want to experience the traditional Japanese breakfast at the hotel’s restaurant, which you will need to reserve in advance. If you want to stay more central, they have a sister hotel by the imperial palace, which I imagine is every bit as good as that one.

Practical tips:

Don’t be a dumb gaijin and respect local customs. Don’t be loud, be cognizant of personal space, and learn a few phrases in Japanese, like greetings and thanks. Contrary to popular belief, few Japanese speak English. Google Translate is your friend.

Take out cash. While Japan has made huge strides in accepting credit cards, many smaller restaurants are still cash only.

Make reservations for restaurants well in advance. Many are small and fill up quickly.

Get an IC transit card, like Suica or Pasmo. You can now simply create a virtual one on your phone from your Apple Wallet (and I imagine the Android equivalent as well).

Taxis are fairly inexpensive in Kyoto, so use them. You can hail one or you can sign up for Didi, the Uber equivalent. Or you can take the bus, for which you can pay with coins or a 1,000 yen bill, or with an IC card.

Bring nice socks, because you will be in plenty situations that require you to take your shoes off.

Avoid food / drink to go, because just like in Tokyo, it is painfully hard to find trash bins. Sit down and relax even at the most casual spots – you will need rest anyway.

Bring a half-empty suitcase, because you will inevitably overbuy.