Book Review: Madame Grès Couture Paris

Madame Grès Couture Paris, recently published by Rizzoli, is the latest book by fashion historian and curator Olivier Saillard. Saillard, whose extensive accomplishments at Paris’ Palais Galleria are credited with invigorating an interest in fashion beyond that of the more established Musée des Arts Décoratifs, is one of the leading voices on the work of Madame Grès. His recent “Alaïa / Grès” exhibition at the Alaïa Fondation, and “Madame Grès, The Art Of Draping” at SCAD last year, continues to further the legacy of one of the most innovative couturiers in the history of fashion.

MORE RICK OWENS

Rick Owens new photography book, shot by Danielle Levitt, delves into a remarkably creative and transformative phase in his career. During this period, he ventured into innovative shapes, the utilization of novel materials, and an unparalleled exploration of color.

Dior Images: Paolo Roversi

Paolo Roversi’s dreamy images have sent this reviewer’s heart aflutter for many a year, so if this review is biased, don’t shoot the messenger. The painterly quality with which Roversi imbues his soft-focus photos takes them out of our age and puts them in one not so much defined in historical terms, but in terms of literary fiction, of worlds made up by the sheer force of human fantasy.

This Italian – and according to Roversi himself, he is very Italian in the art historical sense – has produced a stunning number of stunning photos in publications ranging from Vogue Italia to Another. A source of constant consternation for me has always been the lack of books about Roversi’s work. This past January, during my visit to a Roversi’s exhibit at 10 Corso Como in Milan, I spent a significant amount of time in nail-biting anxiety in front of a table strewn with Roversi’s books, some rare ones, weighing the heft of my wallet and the capacity of my luggage. What I am trying to say is that any time a Roversi book comes out, it’s an event. And so the new book of Roversi’s images of Dior’s haute couture, newly published by Rizzoli is a welcome gift, incredibly well executed to give Roversi’s otherworldly images their due.

Undercover

Undercover Monograph

It is hard to believe that that the perennially young Japanese label UNDERCOVER turned 25 last year. As part of the anniversary, the publisher Rizzoli is releasing a 256-page book on the brand ($65). It is the first comprehensive overview of UNDERCOVER’s body of work and the first book on the brand available in the West (if you can find it, hunt down the fantastic “The Shepherd,” which documented UNDERCOVER’s first Parisian shows.)