Martin Margiela: The Artist is Absent

One of the premieres at the current TriBeCa Film Festival is a mini-documentary on Martin Margiela, “The Artist is Absent,” directed by Alison Chernik. How do you make a documentary about a designer notoriously recluse? You interview other important people.

Among them, Jean-Paul Gaultier, the designer who gave Margiela his first job, the fashion critic Suzy Menkes, Raf Simons, who credits seeing a Margiela show for the first time with his desire to become a fashion designer, and our dear friend, the Belgian makeup artist Inge Grognard, who did the makeup for those iconic early Margiela’s shows.

1990s

Op-Ed: Why The 90s Matter

Everyone who goes through his formative years in a certain decade considers it the golden age. Obviously, the 90s were the best decade ever.

But let’s go beyond facetiousness. In terms of cultural production it is obvious that every decade has the good and the bad. What is more interesting is how much of the good and how much of the bad the zeitgeist of every decade produces, and what gets to hit the mainstream. Why 90s matter is that it was the decade when culture, and fashion as part of culture, took the last stand before succumbing to pure, unapologetic commerce.