Margiela The Hermes Years at MoMu
By the time the Belgian designer Martin Margiela was appointed as head designer of the storied maison Hermes in 1996, he was widely seen as being at the forefront of the fashion’s avant-garde.
By the time the Belgian designer Martin Margiela was appointed as head designer of the storied maison Hermes in 1996, he was widely seen as being at the forefront of the fashion’s avant-garde.
Photographer: Raul Diaz (Instagram @rrrdiaz / www.rrrdiaz.com)
Models: Anne Lise Maulin + Erik Sakai
Clothing: m.a+ collection 17s
www.maurizioamadei.it
I first met the photographer Deborah Turbeville in 2011 when I profiled her for our second print volume. It turned out that Deborah was an avid Russophile, and our conversation ranged from her work to her love of Russian literature, cinema, music, and ballet. After Deborah passed away, it was the first article from our print editions that we shared online.
I kept in touch with people who managed Deborah’s estate, and early this year I finally went to see her archive, housed in an Upper East Side townhouse and to meet its co-director, Paul Sinclaire, who also was one of Deborah’s closest friends. While I was browsing the photos, like some kid in gothic Disneyland, I spotted a box titled “Comme des Garçons.” I went through it, and the ethereal, otherworldly photos in it were marked “1981.” Could it be that Deborah had shot the first collection Kawakubo presented in Paris? It very well could, though we did not know for sure. But what I did know was that given the May exhibition of Comme des Garçons at the Met these photos should be made into a book. I asked Paul what he thought about making a book, and he loved the idea.
If you go to the Met Museum’s Comme des Garçons show, do not leave without buying the accompanying catalog. If you don’t go to the show, buy the catalog. This is as simple of advice as I can give you about this stunning publication by the Met (distributed by Yale University Press). The white, oversized…
One of the several questions that came to me as I was leaving the press preview of the “Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between” show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art was, “Who is this exhibit for?” Or, to reframe it in broader context, what is the role of museums today?
We are always eager to learn about the new projects from the Iceland-based designer Sruli Recht, who has successfully transcended fashion design and who is more of a mad scientist in the best possible sense of the word.
We would like to present to you unpublished images from the Boris Bidjan Saberi exhibit 0-11 now on view at CAM Raleigh, NC until May 7.
We would like to present to you Lumen et Umbra’s capsule collection done in collaboration with Jonny White of Art Department.
Jonny White also played at our GUIDI event in 2015.
Photos courtesy of Lumen et Umbra.
This May, Comme des Garçons is launching the Olfactory Library which will bring back 10 iconic scents.
One of the most persistent questions I have gotten over the past two years is what I think about Alessandro Michele’s Gucci.