haider ackermann men ss17 41

Fashion Week Ramblings – S/S 2017

If I had to summarize this past menswear season, it’d be the one of plenty of good product and few good ideas. It was neither weak nor strong, pretty much in tune with what I have come to expect of fashion as of late.

Men’s fashion has been now thoroughly splintered into parts that cater to the youngsters and to the adults, and nowhere has this been more evident than at Pitti Uomo in Florence, where the bulk of the trade fair itself is devoted to traditional menswear, and where three designers that are of interest to the young were showing – Gosha Rubchinkiy, Visvim, and Raf Simons.

stylezeitgeist final 1 alt 1

Editorial: SOME GIRLS WANDER BY MISTAKE

Editorial Photoshoot Photographer: Dusan Reljin, Model: Irina Kravchenko @ Women, Hair: Kevin Ryan using Rsession and Unite, Make up: Steven Canavan @ l’Atelier NYC using MAC, Manicure : Kiyo Okada @ Marek&Associates for Dolce & Gabbana Beauty, Stylist: Christine de Lassus @ Art Department, Stylist Assistant: Pedro Rodrigo Gonzalez, Stylist 2nd Assistant: Mamaesa London Wilmot

S_Meunier_M_Villalobos

Sebastian Meunier: To Be Myself

A little over two years ago Ann Demeulemeester announced her retirement from her signature label. After the initial shock subsided, the question of succession inevitably came up. That’s when Sebastian Meunier, a Parisian designer who has had a long tenure at Margiela before joining Ann Demeulemeester, stepped out of the shadows. Meunier spent two years at the label before Demeulemeester’s departure and has worked closely with her. But the big question remained; how could anyone fill the shoes of a designer whose style was so clear and who was so inextricably linked to her label? In other words, could there be Ann Demeulemeester without Ann Demeulemeester?

comme-des-garcons-homme-plus-fw16-23

Fashion Week Ramblings F/W 16

This past men’s fashion week was marked by a sense of schizophrenia more than anything else. Half of the shows in Paris were held in opulent palatial spaces and the other half in basements stripped of everything but their concrete foundations. The reactions of critics and buyers were similarly split. The editors I spoke with mostly shrugged shoulders and talked of consistently lowering expectations, while buyers thought the season more than solid.