In certain circles the late Italian designer Massimo Osti is a demiurge, a semi-mythical figure who in the ‘80s created a new language of design by combining his love of innovation with his love of functional clothing. He applied his graphic-design-trained mind, devoid of usual fashion preconceptions, to reimagining military gear and workwear in the context of modern city life, creating a new type of casual wear that gave equal weight to form and function. With C.P. Company and Stone Island Osti launched new chapters in menswear, one that was rooted neither in traditional tailoring of the old generation nor in the fanciful extremes of the new one. He combined form and function into a new aesthetic that spread like wildfire, first in Italy, then all over Europe and then the rest of the world.
Osti experimented relentlessly, and he left a vast archive of ideas and prototypes. And even though the designer untimely passed away in 2005, his spirit of experimentation has lived on in the likes of such forward-looking designers as ACRONYM’s Errolson Hugh and Aitor Throup, not to mention a slew of techwear brands that have come to the fore in the last couple of decades.
Osti’s legacy never went away, but it is now being resurrected directly via Massimo Osti Studio, a clothing line that will be launched next month. The idea is simple enough; just like a painting style can become the original master’s legacy carried on by his disciples, a design philosophy can be continued as well. It seems that Osti would approve, given his penchant for industrial design and his distaste for the cult of the creative director that was already pervasive in fashion during his time.
M.O.S. takes a considered, less-but-better approach to development. It will be unveiled gradually, in a series of “chapters,” one roughly each six weeks, and will only be available for sale on the official Massimo Osti website. Each chapter will explore a single design idea, probing the potential of a material or a concept, done in a collaborative spirit.
Chapter 0: SYNOPSIS
Chapter 1: Alcantara®
Chapter 2: Trama 3D
Chapter 3: Collaboration on Functionality
Chapter 4: Tecnomesh
Chapter 5: Graphic Exploration
Chapter 6: Sailing Exploration
Chapter 7: Gore-Tex®
Chapter 8: Fresco Wool Gum
As for what the final results will look like, we will see what M.O.S. unveils during its presentation during the upcoming men’s fashion week in Paris. We are expecting good things from a brand that carries on the legacy of the man who can rightfully be considered the godfather of techwear.