Rick Owens Men's FW17 “Glitter”

[Mascarar]

http://nowfashion.com/rick-owens-men...17-paris-20730

[mrbeuys]

Yowza,
looks like they crashed into a Comme show on the way out.

[Mascarar]

GLITTER... I CHOSE THIS NAME AS A REACTION TO THE LAST CYCLE OF MY COLLECTIONS, WHICH WERE ABOUT FACING PHYSICAL AND ECOLOGICAL DECLINE GRACEFULLY... HOW DO WE FIND THE GENTLEST WAY TO REACT TO CULTURAL AND POLITICAL THREAT? I MIGHT HAVE SUMMARIZED THAT SENSE OF DOOM WITH THE LAST FEW SHOWS AND NOW IT’S TIME TO MOVE ON.
‘GLITTER’ REFERS TO A PERIOD IN THE SEVENTIES CELEBRATING SLEAZE, TRANSGRESSION, SEXUAL LIBERATION AND ANTICONFORMITY WITH A STOMPING BOMBAST. IT WAS ABOUT AN ALMOST GROTESQUE ARTIFICE, REJECTING FEARS IN OPPRESSIVELY TROUBLING TIMES.
I’M ALSO REMINDED OF FRENCH WOMEN’S HATS REACHING RIDICULOUS EXTREMES TO MOCK THEIR OCCUPIERS DURING WORLD WAR 2.
‘GLITTER’ IS ABOUT A DELIBERATE GRITTED TEETH DECISION TO CELEBRATE AND DO THE VERY BEST WITH WHATEVER YOU’VE GOT WHILE YOU CAN; AN UNHINGED DEFIANCE IN THE FACE OF TURBULENCE.
I’M NOT SAYING THIS COLLECTION DOES ALL THAT, BUT IT’S IN THERE SOMEWHERE.
FABRICS ARE HAND-PAINTED IN TONES CALLED ‘BEAN’ AND ‘TOAD’ — SHINY AND CHALKY. WOOLS ARE DENSE AND RIGID, JUTTING OUT AND COLLAPSING AROUND THE BODY IN STIFF FOLDS. SWEATERS ARE ENGINEERED TO HIKE UP AROUND THE MIDRIFF, CROPPING THE TORSO AND ALLOWING HIGH WAISTED PANTS TO CREATE THE FULLNESS AND SWEEP OF A WIZARD’S GOWN.
SLEAZY NYLON DOWN JACKETS ARE BOUND AND WRAPPED WITH T-SHIRTS, LIKE BALLOON ANIMALS, IN BALLOON ANIMAL COLORS — DISTORTING, SWELLING AND DRAGGING.
WOOL DUCHESSE BLAZERS AND NARROW COATS HAVE THEIR HACKED OFF SLEEVES REPLACED WITH TIGHT MISMATCHING KNIT TUBES TO TURN ARMS INTO LONG WANDS.
DOWN-LINED CABANS ARE STRIPED WITH STRIPS OF CANVAS AND PAINT IN MUTED TONES WITH THE VOLUME OF OPERA CAPES — OPERA CAPES TO LISTEN TO MONTSERRAT CABALLÉ SINGING DALILA’S RAPTUROUS ARIA TO GAIN SAMSON’S TRUST BEFORE SHE DESTROYS HIM.

MAKEUP MAC COSMETICS AND SAMMY MOURABIT
HAIR DUFFY (STREETERS)
PRODUCTION LA MODE EN IMAGES
MUSIC ‘SAMSON ET DALILA: MON COEUR S’OUVRE Á TA VOIX’ BY MONTSERRAT CABALLÉ (REMIXED BY JEFF JUDD)


by rickowens official YouTube

[upsilonkng]

better than last couple of seasons yet 2 looks in all i could think is I'm fuckin tired of the sleeping bags as ballon animals shit...
some of the coats are cool though, but my expectations are so low now i literally am thrilled to not have to look at 19 scarfs wrapped around someone w/ a magnifying glass on their buttock pipe.

[stemcell]

I enjoy it. I despise puffer jackets in general, but the backside with the giant trailing bow styling and the ridiculous pointlessness of them being cropped and sleeveless in the first place, is enough to enjoy them.

The colors are so beautiful. It's just like a calming walk through the most boring, back isle of oil landscape paintings in any museum.

Curious to see when he comes back around again, in however many seasons, to a threatening, vengeful resurgence... it's bound to happen eventually. By the end of the next four years no doubt.

I want those sweatshirts with the chamberlain plasticky inserts! But again, those colors... so beautiful. The way the models appear a bit lost or observant at the end is a nice touch.

Maybe I just drowned in the koolaid some time ago. Who knows.

[stemcell]

Yeah I would never want to understand EVERYTHING he does, but I would definitely be curious as to why he still is pushing oversized jumpsuits and wrapped puffers so strongly, so prominently. They're both two of the most impractical pieces he offers, but I'd like to think that's not the only reason they are repeatedly at the forefront. I would like to see more people wear jumpsuits in real life, maybe that's his basic reasoning— eventually they'll catch on.

*offers on a regular basis, as staples. Obviously there are less practical pieces that have been offered.

[Arkady]

I could render an in-depth analysis, but it's safe to say I can't stand 90% of this. It looks like someone shot a thrift store through the large hadron collider and everything came out distended and fused, which sounds rad in theory but looks rough in practice.

Naturally it's much more interesting in motion and Rick is doing whatever he wants at this point given his stable core offering, but the last few seasons have been half-assed performances to me. Clever volume and color alone can't carry a collection.

[blackdeath]

i browsed this over breakfast and at this juncture can say that there are a handful of pieces that can fall in the category of "wearable". the pants are far too long, even on the 7 foot tall models. i do however like the high wasted astaire's play on proportion, it takes it away from that 90's raver vibe that i wasnt too friendly with. it looks like rick is sick of adidas and burying the footwear in the volume of the trousers because let's face it-- at this point no one really cares what the collab looks like because it's going to sell regardless. this is missing the aggression that got me into rick in the first place.

[Faust]

Yowza,
looks like they crashed into a Comme show on the way out.

HA! EXACTLY WHAT I SAID!

I must say I liked it, and part of my liking it for sure was being there. If I just looked at the photos, I don't think I'd like it at all. But being there, hearing the music and seeing the models' stately walk, it was beautiful in an elegiac way. You could almost feel Rick getting philosophical. It was overstyled on purpose.

[slainbabyyc]

man is making heirloom pieces

[slainbabyyc]

For me this collection kind of retroactively justifies the experimentation of previous collections by tying it all together in a single grounding aesthetic. The textures and ideas that were introduced in Cyclops felt really resonant in this collection, like the crackly bleached canvas throughout and the hairpieces which reminded me of the cyclops fishbowls but decayed and doused. Together with the wedge pants (I think they are pants not bodysuits) the models looked like Pyramid Head.

With each passing collection he expands the universe by which these pieces exist and make sense in. So I find myself liking each of the past collections more and more as they open the mind up to the possibilities of what he could do next. For all the designers who attempt to claim rock star appeal in their clothing not many of them are doing it like Rick.

When was the last time he put pink on the men's fw runway? I don't think it's happened before. The sky blue and daffy yellow that I thought was going to be a one off for faun have made consistent reappearances in this collection and the one previous. He reminds me of someone bravely trudging on, determine to show the light to the masses slowly but surely until they understand what he's doing. I think this might be my favorite collection

[Lex1017]

Ya I think the heavy fabrics of the trousers in Mastodon and the shapes and proportions from Walrus have come together nicely here. People who were put off by the cargo pockets I feel can appreciate these ones a little more. I have thought about drapery for men and the way he worked it in to the long coats and blazers of mastodon. That application on the leathers here are cool. Very curious to see the full version of the combat boots. Do I see some backwards body suits as trousers/belted wrap things?

Edit: Here are the boots

[Ahimsa]

More on SZ-MAG

[r3dbarr0n1]

I think the secret theme behind this collection was making guys look like they got tangled up in parachute; died and came back as a ghost like this..

[stemcell]

What'd the invite look like this year?
And if anyone finds any video interviews about the collection please share.