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Saint Laurent Men FW14
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No surprises, it looks like the same man from SS14 but with more coats for winter and a little less flash.
When I look at his shows, I no longer see "fashion" as much as I just see "product". Lots of nice wearable coats, signature leathers and skinny pants with a few sparkly show pieces thrown in for celebs to be photographed in. It's not the worst way to run a business and seems to be working quite well for him but it leaves something to be desired in terms of pushing the dialogue forward.
What's funny is most people's critique will probably be something along the lines of "same old shit" but I would like to throw out there... isn't this the same quality we respect in other designers (Ann, Julius, Harnden etc)? They create and stick to a particular aesthetic rather than fluctuating wildly with the whims of "fashion". My only guess as to why this is a respectable trait for some designers but not others (in terms of critical reception) is: a. it's not an aesthetic we like to begin with so we become annoyed when it is presented season after season without evolving into an aesthetic we do like b. Slimane's aesthetic universe is not as much "his own" as someone like Ann or Rick because his signature pieces are culled from icnonic rock movements, thus we don't see as much creativity or "soul" in what he's doing
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Originally posted by casem83 View PostNo surprises, it looks like the same man from SS14 but with more coats for winter and a little less flash.
When I look at his shows, I no longer see "fashion" as much as I just see "product". Lots of nice wearable coats, signature leathers and skinny pants with a few sparkly show pieces thrown in for celebs to be photographed in. It's not the worst way to run a business and seems to be working quite well for him but it leaves something to be desired in terms of pushing the dialogue forward.
What's funny is most people's critique will probably be something along the lines of "same old shit" but I would like to throw out there... isn't this the same quality we respect in other designers (Ann, Julius, Harnden etc)? They create and stick to a particular aesthetic rather than fluctuating wildly with the whims of "fashion". My only guess as to why this is a respectable trait for some designers but not others (in terms of critical reception) is: a. it's not an aesthetic we like to begin with so we become annoyed when it is presented season after season without evolving into an aesthetic we do like b. Slimane's aesthetic universe is not as much "his own" as someone like Ann or Rick because his signature pieces are culled from icnonic rock movements, thus we don't see as much creativity or "soul" in what he's doingFashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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Hedi's penchant for "rock and roll" and his taste for ultra slim IS his a aesthetic. His uncompromising devotion to these silhouettes is admirable. Hell, he's been doing this since 2000 with Dior (spare his last collection where he added volume to the pants). You can't expect anything different aside from new patterns or little nuances here and there. He reinterprets a genre of music and produces a collection. I can't find any other designer that produces something similar to this with a similar price point/quality.
He's not aiming to reinvent himself season after season. His stuff sells really well and looks great on the people that can fit into it. I can't wear anything besides the tanks and shirts though. Cycling doesn't give you pencil legs.
But fuck, I wish I could fit into that chain blazer.
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