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  • Faust
    kitsch killer
    • Sep 2006
    • 37849

    UK bans two LV ads

    Awesome.

    From WSJ

    PARIS—The U.K.'s Advertising Standards Authority Wednesday banned two Louis Vuitton print ads that it says could have misled consumers into thinking its products are handmade, when in fact the luxury brand also uses machines.
    In the ads, artisans fold the leather of a wallet and hand-stitch the handle of a handbag. "What secret little gestures do our craftsmen discreetly pass on?" an ad asks. "Let's allow these mysteries to hang in the air. Time will provide the answers."
    Louis Vitton A Vuitton ad regulators found 'misleading'



    The authority, which investigates complaints from the public, said the two Vuitton ads breached its truthfulness code and were "misleading." "We considered that consumers would interpret the image of a woman using a needle and thread to stitch the handle of a bag ... to mean that Louis Vuitton bags were hand stitched," the agency said in its ruling.
    Vuitton must immediately pull the print campaign, produced by WPP PLC's Ogilvy & Mather and launched world-wide in November. A third ad from the campaign, in which a man paints the sole of a shoe, didn't draw objections and wasn't reviewed, an ASA spokesman said.
    Vuitton, part of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, said it complied with the authority's requests to clarify its manufacturing process. "This decision is not about the truth of the claim—but whether there was sufficient documentation available to prove to the ASA the 'extent to which LV products are made by hand,'" the company said in a statement. The campaign ended its run several weeks ago, the company added.
    Luxury brands' emphasis on history and authenticity is an advertising trend that has emerged in the post-economic-crisis period. Italian fashion house Gucci, part of France's PPR SA, launched a "Forever Now" print campaign in February, which uses black-and-white photographs taken in its Florence workshop in 1953. Consumers have been favoring labels with deep roots and a rich heritage—Vuitton, Gucci, Hermès—because they're seen as more enduring than newer brands., experts say
    Vuitton factories in France, Spain and the U.S. are a model for modern luxury-goods industrial production—essential for a brand with an estimated $6.17 billion (€5 billion) in sales. Yet the Vuitton ads, evoking paintings from the Dutch masters, with a dark setting, soft light illuminating the craftsmen and titles such as "The Seamstress with Linen Thread and Beeswax," mimic Johannes Vermeer, who painted "Girl with the Pearl Earring."
    Vuitton moved away from traditional fashion advertising three years ago when it launched its "Core Values" campaign focusing on the label's travel heritage. The current version stars soccer legends such as Zinedine Zidane and Pelé with monogrammed luggage in the background. Vuitton's fashion ads continue to feature its latest runway collection.
    The British advertising authority said it received three complaints about the two Vuitton ads.
    During four months of discussions with the authority, Vuitton provided step-by-step guides about the manufacturing of some of its goods and the use of sewing machines. However, Vuitton didn't detail what proportion of the process was done by hand or by machine, the authority said, leading it to conclude the ads were misleading.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

    StyleZeitgeist Magazine
  • eat me
    Senior Member
    • May 2009
    • 648

    #2
    Haha yeah, I've read about it some time ago. Good things, enough of the BS. I'd love for the fashion industry to be more scrutinized, tbh.

    Comment

    • Faust
      kitsch killer
      • Sep 2006
      • 37849

      #3
      If the industry was closely scrutinized, there would be a shit stain on top of it bigger than the BP oil spill.

      The way I see it, there is no incentive to scrutinize it because most of the companies are still small (with the exception of LVMH, Hermes, and PPR) - they are not listed on stock exchanges, they are not in the business of producing products that affect people's health nor the environment (the fur/PETA gripe notwithstanding) and it makes good money. It's like hedge funds vs. mutual funds - the former are for the rich and (ostensibly) financially educated who understand risk and the latter are for the public.

      Remember that article in NYT about the cost of a pair of pants? I expressed my surprise at a designer willing to talk about wholesale/manufacturing prices and markups at a recent press lunch, to which someone (way up top) replied something like, yeah, they finally found an idiot who wanted to talk.
      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

      Comment

      • ronin
        Banned
        • Dec 2009
        • 200

        #4
        Maybe not closely scrutinized, but this kind of regulations seems coherent with the way the "made in" labels are becoming more regulated and hard to obtain (at least in Italy, I think I read there is a discussion started in France as well?). Customers seem to show more concern about where the product comes from, how it was manufactured. Perhaps because with the economic crisis luxury goods have to deserve their price with something else than the dream factor; I can also be part of the wave of ethical / ecological consciousness, with customers wanting not to be pure product consumers anymore and feeling the moral need to take in account what is behind the product. This kind of advertisement definitely surfes the wave, making tradition and manufacturing part of the dream factor. What I wonder is, why advertising authorities would care about such an ad, when there is a good number of misleading advertisements already. I doubt they investigate wether there is sufficient information behind each advertising claim.

        Comment

        • eat me
          Senior Member
          • May 2009
          • 648

          #5
          Faust, I think we need the stain, so to speak, if only to educate the label customer. And the more scrutiny there is on juggernauts like LVMH, Gucci Group etc., the more win for the smaller labels and consumers - perhaps the big ones will start to change in some ways. After all, change is the hot topic of this decade, and they surely want to cash in on that.

          Comment

          • Faust
            kitsch killer
            • Sep 2006
            • 37849

            #6
            I'm not saying we don't need it - I am saying that it's not gonna happen.

            Ronin, where did you hear this? Would be interesting to hear the sources. Last time I checked, Italy required only 10% of labor process to be done in the country to slap a "Made in Italy" label. Although with their manufacturing sector suffering greatly I could see them rethinking this strategy.
            Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

            StyleZeitgeist Magazine

            Comment

            • ronin
              Banned
              • Dec 2009
              • 200

              #7
              Faust, I read an short article about it on fashionmag a couple months ago, will try to retrieve it.
              Last edited by ronin; 06-01-2010, 11:32 AM.

              Comment

              • ronin
                Banned
                • Dec 2009
                • 200

                #8
                Here's an excerpt of a French public report by a member of parliament about the "made in France" label issued this month; there is a section about the recent change in the "Made in Italy" label. The whole report is accessible here in case someone is interested; I haven't read it yet; it's about 220 pages, it's in French.
                Rough translation of the excerpt.

                "A law stating the obligation of origin labeling in certain sectors, named Reguzzoni-Versace, was passed on march 17 2010 by the Italian parliament. The text, which has just been notified to the UE Commission and will not be enforced until october 1st 2010, is a new call towards European institutions to progress on a subjet that is very important to public opinion in Italy, mainly in defense of its small companies and its consumers. The law was cautiously received by the government and professionnal associations.

                The law on commercialisation of clothing, fine leather goods and shoes, regulates origin labeling and product traceability. The label on finished products and intermediate products will have to show informations, in a clear and synthetic way, on :
                - conformity of the manufacturing process to current labour law, guaranteeing respect of conventions signed by the ILO on the whole production line
                - certification of hygiene and security of the products
                - non-exploitation of minors on the production line
                - respect of community law and international agreements on environment.

                The "Made in Italy" label will be authorized only on finished products for which at least two manufacturing steps (amongst the ones defined in the text) are realized in Italy, and for which traceability can be verified for all the other steps.
                The law describes the manufacturing steps for each sector. The products which don't match these conditions will have to label the country of origin, as stated in community law."
                There's also something about guaranteeing quality of the products and fabrics used for sanitary reasons. Fines up to 70 000€ and up to 7 years of prison for recidivists are planned.
                The exact characteristics of labeling and its new conditions are yet to be defined by the ministry of Economic development.

                The website Manymucho mentions the four manufacturing steps defined in the law text : spinning, weaving, dying-embellishment, manufacturing. That's a whole less precise that I thought it would be, and that's good news; if stitching a (logo) button was considered a step, that would have been a huge step backwards. But a fine of 70 000€ doesn't sound like a lot for big companies.

                The report also mentions a law, n. 166/2009, which defines the notion of a product "Entierly made in Italy". "Entirely made in Italy" is extremely selective - design, conception, manufacturing, packaging, all have to be entierly made on Italian territorry, and is for all kinds of products. I've never seen such labeling on clothing so far.

                So far that the European parliament has declared itself in favour of the law (may 18th). A label mentionning environmental and social work conditions has also been discussed the same day.

                Comment

                • eat me
                  Senior Member
                  • May 2009
                  • 648

                  #9
                  This is good, should be universal within EU.

                  "Entirely made in Italy" is extremely selective - design, conception, manufacturing, packaging, all have to be entierly made on Italian territorry, and is for all kinds of products. I've never seen such labeling on clothing so far.
                  Maybe because it just sounds silly?

                  Comment

                  • Faust
                    kitsch killer
                    • Sep 2006
                    • 37849

                    #10
                    Thanks, ronin! That's very interesting. Now, of course to clearly define the manufacturing steps will be the problem.
                    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                    StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                    Comment

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