McQueen

Op-Ed: Fashion’s Postmodernist Phase

New York – From the numerous editorial reports underscoring the end of the fashion season in Paris one of the leitmotifs was the lack of originality on designers’ part.

Paris is usually the cherry on the cake in terms of creativity, a critic’s reward for having to sit through the commercial blandness of New York’s shows, the campy antics of London’s, and the vulgar luxury of Milan’s. Not this time, at least according to Angelo Flaccavento and Robin Givhan, two of the most powerful fashion commentators.

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Dries Van Noten at MoMu

Two weeks ago I got to see the Dries Van Noten: Inspirations exhibit at MoMu, Antwerp’s fashion museum. As the title suggests, the exhibit provides a glimpse into Van Noten’s world, and the influences that feed the wellspring of his creativity.

I have already seen the initial version of the exhibit at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris. It was received with typical fanfare that the fashion press is all too ready to dispense. But while I liked it overall, I was so exhausted by the two floors of continuous explosion of color and ornament that I was happy to get some fresh Parisian air when I finally got out.

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New Alexander McQueen Images at V&A

In the 1990s, Alexander McQueen formed a close relationship with the photographer Ann Ray (Anne Deniau), allowing her to photograph his studio and shows forming what he called, ‘my life in pictures’. Thirteen of these pictures will be on display at V&A in preparation for the upcoming exhibit Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty.

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Deepti Barth – Transgression

Before Deepti Barth, the former right hand in the design studio of Carol Christian Poell, departed to make her own line, she did an art project called Transgression, which can now be viewed at L’Eclaireur in Paris.

In November 2012 Barth flew to Cyprus with a small batch of clothes by Poell. The capital of Cyprus, Nicosia, has been partitioned between the Greek and the Turkish Cypriots after the Turks invaded the country in 1974. It remains the only city in Europe separated by an iron curtain, a subject all too familiar to Barth, who is German and now based in Berlin.