AndiCover

Some Wear Leather, Some Wear Lace

Postpunk and goth are two subcultures that came and went without a bang – amorphous, indefinable, unbracketed. There was something, and its elements were clear enough to see, but to make a structure of the thing was futile. And that is exactly the way the scene liked it.

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Roger Ballen – Outland

The New York born, South Africa-based photographer Roger Ballen’s breakthrough came when he published “Outland” in 2001. The book made a splash, sold out quickly, and is now being republished by Phaidon. Ballen was already an established photographer when he produced a video I Fink U Freeky for Die Antwoord in 2012. Most recently, his work has been painted onto the backs of leather jackets for the latest Comme des Garcons Homme Plus collection.

Video: Iris Van Herpen x Russell Maliphant

This video with clothes by Iris van Herpen and choreography by Russel Maliphant was shot by Warren Du Preez and Nick Thornton Jones, who have collaborated with Bjork and Alexander McQueen, for AnOther Magazine. The music is by Salvador Breed, who has done all the music for Iris van Herpen (and not just because they are a couple!).

Martin Margiela: The Artist is Absent

One of the premieres at the current TriBeCa Film Festival is a mini-documentary on Martin Margiela, “The Artist is Absent,” directed by Alison Chernik. How do you make a documentary about a designer notoriously recluse? You interview other important people.

Among them, Jean-Paul Gaultier, the designer who gave Margiela his first job, the fashion critic Suzy Menkes, Raf Simons, who credits seeing a Margiela show for the first time with his desire to become a fashion designer, and our dear friend, the Belgian makeup artist Inge Grognard, who did the makeup for those iconic early Margiela’s shows.

Nostalgia: Undercover at Pitti Uomo

Undercover was the special guest at Pitti Uomo the first time I attended the Florentine fashion fair. I took a video of Jun Takahashi and his team making a Grace doll, which, in the typical, lightly sinister Undercover signature, is made by gutting teddy bears. It was one of the most unforgettable fashion moments and I wanted to share it with you. The phenomenal music was a live performance by Kan Takagi and Atsuhiro Ito. File under nostalgia…