StyleZeitgeist.com

For all the pro tailors that visit here I have a basic but tricky question for you:

How does one go about constructing a shirt pattern to create a well fitting shoulder/armpit region? I'm having difficulty creating my own pieces in such a way that allows me to alter the shoulder/armpit portion while retaining a nice, nonpuckering shoulder break region.

Is there some trick to it? It's difficult because the sleeve must fit circularly into the hole created when the front and back panels of the body come together yet all are 2-D until you sew it together. So how do you create something on your drafting paper that you know will fit together nicely and how would you alter an existing pattern for a larger or smaller armhole?

Thanks to Zamb, I have a pattern that I have adjusted to my fittings after much trial and error but I would like to know how to do this in a more straightforward and elegant manner both for shirts and outerwear.

Thanks in advance guys!

Albert 

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ccp is never in style so it can never go out

AKA*NYC: Yeah and who cares how it fits. It's CCP.

Purity: KVA is an asshole for making those boots.

Blog @ Cycle-Two.Livejournal.Com

This is probably the exact opposite of the advice you had hoped to receive but, but I don't see why, with some careful measurements of course you shouldn't be able to create an equation for the ellipse that is the arm hole and then find the circumference which would allow you to create a sleeve that fits exactly in the arm hole.

While I can't contribute in any useful way here, best of luck, A.

Can't wait to see what you got cookin'!

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Wow, this makes the battle of Comme des Garcons look like a friendly exchange over coffee.

i was going to say, they spiced baldie up with a chapeau?

sharkweek:

This is probably the exact opposite of the advice you had hoped to receive but, but I don't see why, with some careful measurements of course you shouldn't be able to create an equation for the ellipse that is the arm hole and then find the circumference which would allow you to create a sleeve that fits exactly in the arm hole.

hahaha. Well currently I'm using a method where the edge lengths of the front panel plus back panel's armhole equal the curved edge of the sleeve piece. Trial and error has worked out okay but I know there must be a more elegant way you know? This is the downside to DIY hehehe

 

thanks Avantster my man! I've already designed/created 3 pieces. A special fabric that I ordered and waited two months to come is arriving today which will allow me to make the 4th piece. I'll be opening a website up for these items (along with have them on C2). Everything is pretty limited (editions of 10-15 to start) of course haha 

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ccp is never in style so it can never go out

AKA*NYC: Yeah and who cares how it fits. It's CCP.

Purity: KVA is an asshole for making those boots.

Blog @ Cycle-Two.Livejournal.Com

Kavaj, do you have a written description? I mean, I know what I'm looking at but it's the actual  measuring/construction that is tricky to me.

 

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ccp is never in style so it can never go out

AKA*NYC: Yeah and who cares how it fits. It's CCP.

Purity: KVA is an asshole for making those boots.

Blog @ Cycle-Two.Livejournal.Com

there are different descriptions and ways in making such an arm. I think you should try different measurements and make what fits you the best. Try buying a secondhand jacket or something and rip it to pieces and learn from that (analyzing the patterns that is).

 

 

kavaj:

there are different descriptions and ways in making such an arm. I think you should try different measurements and make what fits you the best. Try buying a secondhand jacket or something and rip it to pieces and learn from that (analyzing the patterns that is).

 

Thanks for confirming this Kavaj :) I have been planning on doing this for a while now and you've given me that extra push to do it hehehe

At the very least it'll be a baseline.pattern for my own construction

 

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ccp is never in style so it can never go out

AKA*NYC: Yeah and who cares how it fits. It's CCP.

Purity: KVA is an asshole for making those boots.

Blog @ Cycle-Two.Livejournal.Com

If all else fails...raglan sleeves?

Don't know if this helps you, but it did help me.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sweater_design

Purity, that is awesome! Thank you!!!

Drexl, my projects right now involve anatomic construction mixed with nice fitted cuts. It's coming along really nicely. I'm very very happy with the pieces so far. I may use raglan for a few pieces later on but for now I like the structured fit that a classically constructed shoulder will give me :)

Thanks to both of you!!!! 

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ccp is never in style so it can never go out

AKA*NYC: Yeah and who cares how it fits. It's CCP.

Purity: KVA is an asshole for making those boots.

Blog @ Cycle-Two.Livejournal.Com