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Old 08-20-2010, 10:24 AM   #1
kuugaia
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Default [DIY] Drop Crotch Pants

I really liked the concept of a pair of pants, but it didn't fit the way I would of liked so I decided to do some DIY. One thing lead to the next and so here we are...with something quite different from what I originally had planned. It is initially inspired by the MA+ 5 pocket pant, with some ideas drawn from Julius/RO.

Disclaimer: I am a complete noob with no skill and this is the first garment I have ever made. So any tips on improvement would be appreciated as my sewing and design abilities are extremely novice.

A look at the final product:



Original concepts:




As you can see, the pant isn't entirely a normal drop crotch. I had hours of trial and error on the first practice pant, so I recommend just doing something simpler if you want to save yourself the trouble. The pant that I did is actually an inner short combined with a outer drop crotch pant. That's not to say this DIY is useless for people wanting to make drop crotches as it's still got the general idea going on.

Before you start:
The main problem with DIY drop crotch pants (besides the awkward look) is the fabric choice. From what I've figured, and correct me if I'm wrong, the material needs to be accommodating for the movement restrictive nature of the lower crotch. So having stretch in the fabric would be ideal, but having too much of it takes away from the structure. I'm not going to go into this too much because I am a total noob and don't want to embarrass myself, but just make a well deliberated choice on fabric before you begin. That is, if you have a good resource of materials...unlike myself.

Different types of crotches:


Pretty much the idea is to get extra fabric into the crotch area so that you can actually walk in it. First type on the left is a concept I copied/stole from Julius and it gives a drapey sarouel kind of look. Second way I believe is the most common form of drop crotch, the idea of which I gathered from the RO drop crotch pant. It pretty much just adds fabric to the under area of a crotch to alleviate the stress. Another one is the third drawstring type, which gives you the extra fabric in the crotch from the wide nature of the pant eventually being pulled in. I used a combination of these ideas on my pant but the choice is really up to you.

Last edited by kuugaia; 08-20-2010 at 12:08 PM.
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Old 08-20-2010, 10:25 AM   #2
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I am a total loser and lost my sheets with all the measurements. If I ever find it I will update this thread to give more detailed instructions.

First Step: Make a pair of comfortable shorts.
I have no idea about patterns and stuff so what I pretty much did was make two tubes for each leg and then I sewed them together. Two things to keep in mind is that the waist has to be much wider than your true waist size (maybe +15cm), so that you can actually put it on without busting a seam. And it has to be longer at the top than you would normally have it. This is so that you can wrap/cover the elastic waistband you attach later to keep it from falling off your ass.



I later added a decorative zigzag stitch in gray, although this was a personal design choice.



Second Step: Cut out the two panels for the outer drop crotch legs.
I created my own pattern from blood, sweat and tears (mostly tears) but it's really up to you how you want to do it as there are many different ways for the outer drop crotch. Sorry for the bad quality...I didn't have the SLR on me at the time, but this picture should hopefully give you a good idea of what I'm talking about:



So this is the actual shape of the panel for one leg:



To get the feel of your drop crotch suiting your body, I suggest that you heavily play around with it. Safety pin it together, cut it, sew it, etc. on a practice piece first before you do your proper one. I failed many times...so don't think it'll work out the first time.

Third Step: To line the edges of the pant.
As you can see in my pant design, I have this part around the pocket area that goes beyond the leg. You need to fix up this up in this step before you attach the panels together. If you want edges of your garments to be durable, clean and look good...this is the only way I could think of doing it (because I'm a noob). You cut out a separate piece of fabric that matches the edge of the panel that you want to fix up, sew it together, flip it over and sew it again. I tried to explain it in the diagram below with 'pockets' as an example, as its easier than trying to draw the panels. But you do use this 'technique' for the pockets you make later on as well (gold lines represent where you sew).



Here are pics for how it's done on the outer drop crotch panels:




Forth Step: Sew the two outer drop crotch panels together.
This part determines how much the outer edge protrudes beyond the leg. The wider apart you sew the panels together, the more the silhouette changes, but you can just keep it closer to the leg if you wish. Personal preference.

Then cut off the excess fabric from the area that you joined the panels together. In my pant laid down flat, I had 3cm on each side protruding beyond the width of my inner short (total of 6cm).



Fifth Step: Sew how low you wanna ride.
Again, how low you want your crotch to be is entirely up to you. Just put it on and test it out. Once you've decided on the length, cut out a diamond shape panel, attach it to the bottom part of the crotch and remove any excess fabric on the inside that you don't need. These instructions may sound very vague...but it's actually very straight forward once you're doing it.



If the diamond panel is too large you will get heaps of saggage that makes it look like you shat your pants. But it's easily remedied by pinching the fabric together and sewing a line through it to shorten its size (which I end up doing later on).

Sixth Step: Make pockets.

This is really optional as it's another hassle to go through. But the aforementioned diagram in the third step shows u how to make the pocket. So four of those and sew them on ergonomic positions on your inner short.

Seventh Step: Put the short and drop crotch together.
This image shows you where I sewed the two pieces together (again the gold represents where to sew):



Do not sew too far along the panel edges as you need to leave space for your hands to go into the pockets. The vertical solo stitch on the other side of the pocket is to keep the side of the panel from falling down. I did this by hand but you can just use the sewing machine. Again...hard to understand but very straight forward if whilst you're actually doing it. Some detail shots later on will give you a better idea.

Last edited by kuugaia; 08-20-2010 at 12:12 PM.
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Old 08-20-2010, 10:25 AM   #3
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Eighth Step: Attach the elastic waistband.
You get a piece of fabric elastic that's strong enough to hold your pants up...the width of it would be about 2cm or so (a picture of the one I used is in the concept pictures of the first post). You fold over the top of the pant (singular 'pant' as the two pieces are now attached as one) and sew about 3 - 3.5cm down from the top. LEAVE A GAP of about 10cm so that you can loop the elastic band through. Hook a large safety pin to one end of the elastic band, and slowly keep working it through one side of the gap till it appears out of the other side. Now, grab the two ends of elastic and sew them together making a circular loop of fabric elastic. Test to see if the elastic is taut enough to hold your pants up, if it's not strong enough...then shorten it. After it's feeling all good and comfortable close up the gap.



Ninth Step: Finish the legs.
This step can be done before attaching the two outer drop crotch panels or later, it's up to you. I would recommend a slightly tapered leg so there isn't baggy stacking at the ankle area. 18.5cm hem is what I did but the width of the leg tube is, like most things in this DIY, entirely up to you. Here is a pic of my reinforced hem:



Tenth Step: Finishing touches.
Cut off excess threads. Reinforce areas you think are weak. Check if you like the flow of your drop crotch. Marvel at your creation. Here are some more detailed close ups:

Pocket.

Back.

Side.

Top down point of view of the side of the leg.


Finished product.


Feel free to ask any questions, give me suggestions on techniques to better improve or whatever!

Last edited by kuugaia; 08-20-2010 at 03:32 PM.
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Old 08-20-2010, 02:31 PM   #4
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This is not bad for a first garment. I would have slimmed the legs a bit more.
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Old 08-21-2010, 12:03 AM   #5
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Thanks.

I've actually already slimmed it down once after completion but it's a good idea to do it again. These pants currently don't suit any other shoes I have due to how baggily bunches up when I tuck...
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Old 08-22-2010, 10:20 AM   #6
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awesome! im jealous i always wanted to make one myself. ):
other than the sad fact that i do not own a sewing machine..
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Old 08-23-2010, 12:40 PM   #7
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I think this is really good. Been trying to make some drop crotch pants myself, but I always screw up. This has inspired me to try again.
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Old 08-24-2010, 10:56 AM   #8
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Wow very nice! Cannot believe this is your first time when i see the pictures, it looks very good to me!
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Old 08-24-2010, 02:49 PM   #9
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impressive first effort! i like the width of the leg, actually. just lose the ikea mirror ;)
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Old 08-28-2010, 06:54 AM   #10
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I think this is very very well done. Very clear concept and spotless execution! congratz
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Old 08-30-2010, 10:04 AM   #11
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Fab effort and fab result
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Old 09-13-2010, 10:46 AM   #12
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Haha christianef that's actually my girlfriend's mirror that she bought in high school. But yes it is indeed terrible, but all I had to use.

Thanks for the feedback guys, really appreciate it. Pushing me to make my next item soon.
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Old 11-19-2010, 07:01 PM   #13
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really awesome!!!
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Old 01-01-2011, 05:36 PM   #14
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Since this is your first effort it is great! I would however like someone already mentioned taper the legs and I would probably have added a drawstring since I find that suits elastic waist trousers. Last one is however a purely personal opinion.

If you do something else please post it, looking forward to seeing more of your work!
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Old 03-23-2011, 09:19 AM   #15
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awesome. As a your good work.
it's rock!!
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Old 03-24-2011, 05:29 AM   #16
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Very nice indeed! I would like to be able to do the same... Did you really have no training at all?
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