Collateral Concepts: Discontinuity

[Nickefuge]

I am amazed every time I open this thread. Beautiful work!

[Chinorlz]

^ thanks for the kind words :)

Just to address a number of inquiries, this design is available for order with size 48-50 currently available (1 piece not including my personal one) and other sizes to order. Please PM me for further details.

[ian+]

Hey Chinorlz, having served the army recently you managed to freshen my memories with the fabric. Our blankets looked just like that minus the cleaning factor. Ours were full of dust

[Chinorlz]

Haha, well I hope the memories brought back aren't too bad my friend :) Glad you served and came out in one piece.

[Chinorlz]

Further presentations of pieces from the jacket project to be done here later on this week.

Because of my schedule these days, I will be presenting the works as editions with a set number of pieces for that design and fabric.

Starting with the presentation later on this week, the work will be presented and the edition number listed. Interested parties may place an order for their desired size, vent style and the jacket will be constructed to order.

There will not be size limitations as each will still be made to order, just that the total number of pieces will be set.


Thank you all so much for your continued support over the years!

[Chinorlz]

Also, as several people have inquired about it since presentation, the vintage Japanese boro blazer with dyed piano key ivory buttons is available for sale. It is an edition of 1 and comes with documentation from my studio, hanger and slip cover.

Please PM me for any inquiries!

[Chinorlz]

Classic Length, Double Vented Blazer

[Chinorlz]

Double vented, 3 button front closure with flapless front slit pockets that are built into the contouring curved seam on the side.

WW2 military blanket outer shell with English wool liner and Gabon Ebony wood buttons.

The other is a cotton/linen outer shell and a custom made "bruised" batik lining.

Both are double vented in design.

[applecrisp]

I must admit, I wasn't a fan of the little pocket flaps on the previous iteration of this blazer, but without the flaps it looks excellent.

Also, I'd love to hear more about the interesting lining. Did you dye it yourself?

[Chinorlz]

Thanks for the feedback! I did want to explore some changes/adjustments to that design so I went back to the drawing board so to speak to redesign and ecut the pattern for this version.

The lining is part of 3 custom batiks I had made for me almost 6 years ago at this point. The one that I used up was for the 2nd Iteration collection as the internal "neural network" of the zip hoodie and I also used some of another one that had a "dried blood" look to it for the lining of a crushed machine washable leather shirt jacket.

I had been holding on to this "bruised" fabric for this project which I have wanted to do for a very long time but my schedule wouldn't permit until now.

All three were dyed by a midwest artisan after we talked for a while about my background and design approach and what i envisioned for the fabric. She then created a series of these for me based on our conversation. Unfortunately my personal expertise in fabric dyeing is limited to single colors at this point!

[Scander]

The wool was originally a medium brown and this was first boiled to tighten and irregularly shrink the fabric and then was vat dyed with 3 different black dyes to give it a rich, variated black-brown color that in indoor/dimmer light looks almost completely black but shows the tones in brighter light.

Can you explain me how you boiled the wool?
Thank you!
The last 4 works are beautiful!

[applecrisp]

Very cool, thanks for the insight.

I think you've really hit a homerun with these last 2 pieces, congrats!

[Chinorlz]

Can you explain me how you boiled the wool?
Thank you!
The last 4 works are beautiful!

Thank you guys!

For that earlier piece the fabric was first washed with a fabric detergent that removes the chemicals that often remain on fabric when they are being woven/processed.

Then it was put in a large pot and water was brought up to simmering and the fabric was placed in there and allowed to circulate with occasional stirring. The same water level and heat was used for the dye process (lots of salt was also added of course for dye activation and adherence).

After that original dye process the fabric was rinsed out several times until the water ran clear to ensure that all non-bonded dye was gone to minimize any future dye transfer to the lining or to other fabrics/garments.

When choosing your fabrics for boiling etc. you definitely need to take composition into account as well as weave... synthetics aren't going to shrink so blends may not lend to the final result that you wanted whereas 100% wool (or 100% cotton) in the right weave etc. could do it. You would also need to experiment with temperatures and length of times of boiling/treatment to control how shrunken the fabric gets etc.

I hope that helps!

[Scander]

Thank you guys!

For that earlier piece the fabric was first washed with a fabric detergent that removes the chemicals that often remain on fabric when they are being woven/processed.

Then it was put in a large pot and water was brought up to simmering and the fabric was placed in there and allowed to circulate with occasional stirring. The same water level and heat was used for the dye process (lots of salt was also added of course for dye activation and adherence).

After that original dye process the fabric was rinsed out several times until the water ran clear to ensure that all non-bonded dye was gone to minimize any future dye transfer to the lining or to other fabrics/garments.

When choosing your fabrics for boiling etc. you definitely need to take composition into account as well as weave... synthetics aren't going to shrink so blends may not lend to the final result that you wanted whereas 100% wool (or 100% cotton) in the right weave etc. could do it. You would also need to experiment with temperatures and length of times of boiling/treatment to control how shrunken the fabric gets etc.

I hope that helps!

Thank you Chinoriz, you have been really clear!
Have you thought of boiling it when the blazer is ready? I think the cotton - if used for the lining - would shrink less then the wool, like some PH blazer etc.

[Chinorlz]

^ I definitely have and looked into it quite deeply with some testing as well.

The issue to some extent is that doing a jacket with components such as interface and horsehair canvas do not do well with long soaks and high temp water boiling. You'll get interface separation all over the place.

At the same time, the % wool/cotton shrinkage is going to be a bit tricky with the warp and weft (affecting pattern construction and cutting the fabric as well).

I don't think PH jackets are actually boiled after construction. At most, they are wetted and crumpled to dry and then the buttons/button backings are sewn on. To get that "shrunken" look with the shell being slightly oversized when compared to the lining is pretty easy as you just adjust the outer patterns a bit. I explored this with the boiled wool blazer as you can see there is some rumpling/bunching above the rear vent and at the cuff end.

I also do not want to tread into PH territory as well and would like to keep my work distinct as much as possible. Another reason I didn't deeply pursue that avenue/look :)