Collateral Concepts: Discontinuity

[ronald_bne]

AMAZING! Man I wish I had tailoring skills like that.

[Dorje]

Wow, great work!

[byhand]

Where do you sell your work, and do you take special orders for size?

[Chinorlz]

Right now the only store that carries my work is AL Select in Tokyo. I'm a one man show so AL Select is all I am able to support right now with my schedule :)

If you have questions or sizing/order inquiries please feel free to drop me a PM. A number of people have asked and this boro version of the blazer is not something that i will be able to offer for order. By nature of the materials there will be BIG variations between jackets and it takes a tremendous amount of boro fabric/old garments to construct one piece like this. I may make 1 or 2 over the coming months, but that depends on time and material acquisitions.

I do plan on constructing some non-boro versions of the jacket as well so those should be forthcoming :)

[dalmatas]

Amazing jacket really like it!

[Chinorlz]

thanks for the kind words everyone! There will be a few more versions with more "traditional" fabrics. Correct tailoring with horsehair canvassing of the front panels included and continuation of the fully hand done pick stitching and handsewn buttonholes. English wool and lovely cotton lining to be dyed in the studio.

Buttons for the upcoming pieces will be handmade Gabon Ebony wood buttons made from panels in the studio as well :)

[BlacknWhite]

Fifth iteration, make it happen, Albert.

[Chinorlz]

Got some things in the works ;)

A quick 1:30am studio shot with d3o non-newtonian shaped impact guards, kevlar, patterns, fabric....

[DudleyGray]

Got some things in the works ;)

A quick 1:30am studio shot with d3o non-newtonian shaped impact guards, kevlar, patterns, fabric....

Yes, please.

[modalsaliency]

As someone who has just finished buying some gear upgrades, I can't begin to tell you how earnest I am in hoping that you pull this off.

[BlacknWhite]

"Next Collateral Concepts collection will be called Rush and will revolve around some aspects of motorcycle gear. For the 5th iteration, a small collection to be developed over the coming year blending tech with the anatomic design, materials research and experiment-based approaches I have always been doing. Should be fun!"

[Chinorlz]

Reprocessed Vintage English Wool Blazer Project

[Chinorlz]

The second piece in the blazer project that I have been working on (the first being the boro blazer posted earlier).

A further exploration into vintage materials, fabric processing as well as implementation of traditional tailoring components. The pattern is the same as the boro blazer with the addition of a modified french cuff style cuff design which allows for the wearer to change the button style/look with a two-faced fully removable button set. You can overlap the cuff for a more traditional look, or face them to each other for a french cuff look.

The fabric is 100% vintage english wool and enough existed only for two jackets. The wool was originally a medium brown and this was first boiled to tighten and irregularly shrink the fabric and then was vat dyed with 3 different black dyes to give it a rich, variated black-brown color that in indoor/dimmer light looks almost completely black but shows the tones in brighter light.

The jacket is half canvassed with standard horsehair canvas with the shoulder canvassing curving to the back upper shoulder to follow the chest panel pattern. This gives just a little bit extra structural shoulder support without being too stiff and allowing the wearer's body to generate the majority of the silhouette. The sleeve seam matches the shoulder seam perfectly for a smooth visual transition across the rear shoulders.

The front flap pockets are both fully functional and lined. 100% handsewn pick stitching is present on both lapels all the way down to the bottom hem of the jacket and pick stitching is also present on the front flap pockets.

The lining is 100% medium weight cotton which also provides some structural shaping and support to the slightly oversized outer shell. Seams on the inner front complement the pockets and seaming on the outer portion of the jacket and have dual deep front pockets that are hidden within a seam.

All buttons are completely constructed in the studio starting with Gabon ebony wood panels which are first hand cut and then finished with grinding and drilling before installation by hand. Each button has a smaller wood panel backing on the inner lapel for support.

Each buttonhole is sewn in 3 stages with only the first stage done by machine. 3 different thread thicknesses and types (with the final dense hand stitching done with silk thread.) were used.

Edition of 2

Size 50

[Chinorlz]

World War II US Military Blanket Coat

[Chinorlz]

The 3rd installation of the blazer project, this piece is cut from a single World War II military issue blanket and fully lined in fine English wool.

The pattern is a long-coat evolution and re-work of the standard blazer pattern that I have developed. The cuffs are classic style and close with a single button made from Gabon Ebony wood panels and fully crafted in my studio by me. Each button has its own smaller wood backing for inner face reinforcement and is handsewn in place. The buttonholes are all hand sewn with gray silk thread. The front closes with 4 buttons and has a different look depending on which/how many buttons chosen to be used.

The coat is half canvassed and also has deeper front pockets (also lined in matched English wool) for warmth and functionality. The inner pockets are also deeper to hold more items.

The design is again cut to blend traditional lapeled blazer/coat construction with touches of Asian mandarin-styled outerwear.

The usage of the US WWII military issue blankets is a way to breathe new life into a forgotten fabric that has traveled the world on the backs of soldiers, been there during battle, and kept the owner warm on cold nights. The blanket now has new purpose and meaning with its conversion.

On close examination you can see a gentle weave pattern and that the gray, wooly fabric has fibers of greens and reds deep within.

I chose English wool for the lining not only for comfort and warmth but to further echo the collaboration between the US and England as WWII Allies… a functional and historic pairing that works well on multiple levels.

Shell:
80% Wool 20% Other Fibers

Lining:
100% Wool


Of note, I recently traveled after working on one of these in the studio and I had my hands swabbed for explosives at the airport and it came back positive (this led to a more thorough bag search off to the side at the security gate). The only thing I had touched earlier was the coat and so it is possible that there is still a tiny tiny amount of nitrates/combustion compounds present and detectable on a mass spec. level on the fabric. All the blankets are washed prior to construction, but even so this is a possibility.

As pictured, fits a 48-50.