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Old 02-06-2012, 07:25 AM   #1
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Default Sruli Recht - AW12/13 - Field Dressing

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Old 02-06-2012, 07:26 AM   #2
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Old 02-06-2012, 07:27 AM   #3
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Old 02-06-2012, 07:27 AM   #4
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Old 02-06-2012, 07:28 AM   #5
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Old 02-06-2012, 07:28 AM   #6
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Old 02-06-2012, 07:29 AM   #7
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Old 02-06-2012, 07:30 AM   #8
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Old 02-06-2012, 07:30 AM   #9
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STORY
This is the third complete menswear line from Sruli Recht.
“This collection was lost out on the hunt, chasing the goal to no end.” - Sruli Recht, January, 2012.
The collection in three words - tailored, pulsing, visceral.

MATERIALS
This season employs a global selection of wool, waxed cottons, leathers and silks, glass, timber and steel, complimented by Icelandic reindeer and horse skin.
All the buttons are made from metal alloy rods, designed, moulded and drop-cast in the studio, and blackened.

Feature materials designed or made by the studio this season:

Horsetail-hair Satin
Ásthildur Magnúsdóttir, a woman of iron will and a brain in each finger, wove 3cm a day in the dead darkness of an epic Icelandic winter. Made from the waste products of the horse farms and slaughterhouses, Ásthildur developed for us a hand-loomed satin from single strands of horsetail hairs.

Cetacea Leather
And in those nets and on those beaches, leaving the water, the cold air it breaches.
Made by the man in the north, from bodies washed ashore, the Atlantic White-Sided Dolphin skin is nearly un-tannable, as the skin has structure more like an eye.


Spider-Silk Knit
We held down a spider, strapped its legs to a board, and reeled out its silk, for our silk spun hoard.

Our knit originates from the silk gland of a spider, carefully placed in the milk duct of a goat. The single filament is reeled out of the goat millimetres at a time to produce the most difficult to obtain fibre in the world. Having secured 2 skeins of the silk, each many thousands of metres long, we spent 4 days unravelling it to prepare for knitting. A further week was spent gently coaxing two filaments into the knotted web of these garments... And then another week convincing it to become the emperor's new clothing.
Weight for weight, silk is stronger than steel and tougher than Kevlar.


Icelandic Wool
With a local knitting house, we designed two new knits for this season:
A Felt - Felted 100% Icelandic wool from a structured waffle knit base.
And a Knit - Knitted and brushed 50% Icelandic wool and 50% cotton knit in a tight tuck stitch.

The wool of The Icelandic sheep - Íslenska sauðkindin [a patched history]
Pure descendants of the same stock as the Norwegian Spelsau, brought to Iceland by the Vikings prior to 900 Anno Domine, Icelandic sheep have been bred unmixed for one thousand, one hundred years in a bitter, harsh environment. The baron moss-fields of Iceland yield rare game and consequently they are efficient herbivores. Icelandic skins come in many colours and generally are not dyed. The hide is quite soft and are on average 6 square feet (0.56 m2) to 8 square feet (0.74 m2) in size. Often left unshorn for the winter, the wool length can be up to 8 inches (200 mm) in length.

Icelandic fleece is dual-coated, and this wool is made up of two types of fibres: coarse and fine. The long outer coat is called Tog and the fine inner coat called Thel. Tog is generally classified as a medium wool around 27 micrometres in diameter. This wool is good for weaving and for use in other durable products and it is long, glossy, tough, and water resistant. Thel, being the finer wool and classified as such, is generally around 20 micrometres in diameter. This finer wool is used for garments that touch the skin as it tends to be softer and more insulating, providing a high resistance to cold and possessing a unique texture and natural colours.


GARMENTS
The Field Dressing collection for Autumn and Winter 2012/13 consists of 35 total looks - from tuxedo to tracksuit, coats, tailored jackets and cardigans, to trousers, shorts and leggings, complimented by boots, shoes, bags, raincoats, gloves and silver jewellery - 75 styles, approximately 180 with material variations.
All garments and product samples are produced in-house unless otherwise stated. Shoes and boots are made and lasted in Iceland.

The majority of the garments/ items are constructed from a single pattern piece and one piece of material, where the width of the material allows. I.e. In the case of the shirts, the cuff and placket come from the same piece of fabric as the sleeve, which is also part of the body and collar.

Everything in the collection is made in Iceland.


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Old 02-06-2012, 07:52 AM   #10
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Amazing!
colors, textures, forms - everything is perfect!!
the only thing that i don't like is heel of his shoes
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Old 02-06-2012, 07:47 PM   #11
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Aside from the great use of colours and materials, I am most impressed by the placements of the seams. Hello to more sloped shoulders.

If this was made for females I'd probably rent out my womb to gay couples.
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Old 02-06-2012, 08:13 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Rosenrot View Post
Aside from the great use of colours and materials, I am most impressed by the placements of the seams. Hello to more sloped shoulders.

If this was made for females I'd probably rent out my womb to gay couples.
/\

Bahahaha. Who said you can't wear mens clothes .
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Old 02-06-2012, 08:49 PM   #13
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This is so beautiful. The fabrics are incredible and so cohesive. I think the experimental seams and shapes (especially the shoulders) could be a little better thought out, but still it's wonderful.

Does anyone know where you can purchase his stuff?
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Old 02-06-2012, 09:30 PM   #14
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^He's got a webstore of his own, actually.

And man! Sruli brings it every time in the weirdest way, but he brings it so well and always so interestingly.
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Old 02-06-2012, 09:35 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by shdws View Post
/\

Bahahaha. Who said you can't wear mens clothes .
The knits are okay for females, but what I'm most interested in are the structured coats. They won't work on female shapes, at least not as they are intended to be.
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Old 02-06-2012, 09:52 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by BeauIXI View Post
^He's got a webstore of his own, actually.

And man! Sruli brings it every time in the weirdest way, but he brings it so well and always so interestingly.
I've been waiting for him to reopen his webstore now 3 seasons ago. There are a lot of accessories that I want to buy but would prefer to buy via a webstore than contacting the team directly... easier to just fill a shopping cart and being able to choose all the fabrics/sizes online all in one go.

there are so many incredible works that i want.... Sruli needs to open that webstore again!
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Old 02-06-2012, 10:06 PM   #17
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It was a really good webstore anyway, I don't understand why he's had it down for so long. Maybe he's adding some HTML 5 elements in a full rebuild or something.
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Old 02-06-2012, 11:05 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosenrot View Post
...I am most impressed by the placements of the seams.
This is one of the two main reasons I love Mr. Recht's work, I mean not merely seam placement but specifically the darting, just look at this wonderful innovation:





...the other main reason being his excellent sense of humour. A knuckleduster umbrella, horse leather notebooks stapled with horseshoe nails, and now rifles, knives, saddles and glass slippers.

Speaking of humour, (((o, you missed one of my favourites from this collection, the boots, which I'm pretty sure are heeled to recall horseshoes...







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Old 02-07-2012, 12:35 AM   #19
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Sruli is a mad-scientist and total genius. His work with materials and construction techniques really push the envelope.
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Old 02-07-2012, 01:14 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by MJRH View Post
Speaking of humour, (((o, you missed one of my favourites from this collection, the boots, which I'm pretty sure are heeled to recall horseshoes...
Yeah I didn't post the regular product shots here but if anyone's interested I can upload them to the thread in the designer forum.
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