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Christophe Lemaire Men's SS 15 - Paris
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and heres the video
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LEMAIRE offers a timeless Parisian style that is cosmopolitan, sophisticated and rich in influences. Discover the collections, collaborations and the Lemaire know-how. Free shipping and returns worldwide.
I do wonder about the business side of his brand and if we will see any big changes by the time F/W15 presentations come along. He's spoken in the past about looking for an investor, and now that he has left Hermes, saying his own label is growing, I wonder...Last edited by BlacknWhite; 08-18-2014, 04:14 PM.
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The collection looks even more amazing in the video. It's my favorite Lemaire collection in a while. His collection can either be sophisticated or boring. There's an air of relaxation and elegance around these models which sadly I don't see it in his womenswear. And there's some select shops pick him up so I guess his business is really growing.
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^He draws some inspiration for his aesthetic from middle eastern, and far eastern cultures so that explains the shoes.
I always feel his menswear would be more fitting at Pitti Uomo than it would be showcased in Paris. Yeah he's quite boring, especially his mens spring/summer seasons, but he isn't really fashion to begin with...
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I think you guys are missing the point by stating his collections are "boring"
If I recall Lemaire has hinted at creating clothing that's not "fussy", that inspires one to reflect inward rather than outward, evoking stillness and reflection promoting meditation and personal growth.
I can see how that can come across as "boring" to some teenbeat, but if you look further it's quite beautiful
namasteOriginally posted by Shucksit's like cocaine, only heavier. and legal.Originally posted by interest1I don't live in the past. But I do have a vacation home there.
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I hate the music...
Presentation wise maybe your right better at Pitti...
What stuck me was how stiff yet light the fabric looks, i think it is the sort of garments that need a closer inspection with touch, feel and really to try on. Detailing wise the elements are there; possibly over designed, i don't really like the collection but i think i would like the garments put into a different context and mixed up a bit more. His aesthetic is possibly too soft..
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Like a CCP fencing jacket?--a beautiful object in itself and one of the most difficult to wear, unbeknownst to so many people I've seen wearing it.
I think the collector mentality you're advocating is a perfect example of liking things for the wrong reasons. One of the worst motivations for enthusiasm in this context is the kind inspired by someone outside of oneself.
Your main point is basically that you don't like it. I get it. But I just had to chime in about this idea of buying things for some kind of in-apartment fashion museum of the future. Or an online resale.
Also, collectors items dont look good on all of the people privileged enough to own them. One of the strengths of this collection happens to be that it would look quite handsome/
distinctive on a more than just one type of person. To me it has a bit of that Yohji-described, "Dont bother me, I wont bother you" feel, plus a difference that is likely felt by the wearer as opposed to screamed at its viewers. (also a quality i find in Yohji)
This is in contrast to many contemporary fashion items I see today and worthwhile for that alone. Another plus is that these pieces would probably be in rotation for a longer duration of time and see more frequent use than most collectors items that people salivate over.
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more lemaire
Hey Donzelona,
I see your what you're saying. Saying you spend more on something that strikes the eye sounds much better to me than your original post!
But to address your comment on the designers hand being absent except for on the layered lapels? I disagree! I think its a mistake to simply consider this collection some small details or absence of details. Lemaire has plenty of details and hand in this collection. Its just that its a bit more quiet. Thats the thing I like about Lemaire -- its what he doesn't do as much as what he does that makes his work what it is.
It also helps that Lemaire seems to be inspired by a particular combination of things, often a bonding of eastern/western ideas based on their practicality, functionality and subtle beauty. Like Miyake can be, I appreciate how Lemaire is intent on using these functional details to make modern clothing that does not look like period costumes but relates very much to the present day. It makes me think of what it might have felt like to be introduced to Miyakes "Plantation" line when it was introduced? Another detail I think he got particularly right here is how he brought a certain simple formality to this collection. It keeps it from being a 21st century leisure suit since its comfort is matched by a certain sharpness. I dont particularly want a denim suit in my life but I like how the denim is stripped of its normal American cowboy feel and simply reads as material as valid as the crisp cotton and silk he used.
Some examples of details I like: The tunic that halts just above the hem of the shorts that maintains a masculine elegance without looking too much like a kurta bought by a tourist or too utilitarian like nurses scrubs. The short sleeved blazer with sleeves that extend just past the elbows with a slight flair, not for decoration but more for added movement without sacrificing its clean lines. I also happen to love the leather Chinese slippers he re-introduced this season. Like a lot of this collection, the shoes are delicate but substantial. I have and love the Inaisce ones that are similar but I like these even more.
The inward focused/meditative concept Fncythis mentioned is certainly here too. Its also grounded and doesn't feel so trend-driven or youth-obsessed. It actually feels personal despite having a subtlety that might be mistaken for coldness. These happen to be qualities I value and look for in music as well.
Sorry this is scattered. I dont really have the time to edit this. I just want to actually make an effort to explain what I like about this, esp. after hearing so many say that this is boring.
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