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  • teeteet
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2009
    • 111

    It's the only wool I would wear in the summer.

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    • Faust
      kitsch killer
      • Sep 2006
      • 37852

      Originally posted by u-ti View Post
      totally agree, Ive had an interesting conversation with the staffs in the yohji store when I asked them if they wear yohji everyday even off work, or if they switch to something else like skinny jeans, they told me that the spacey clothes were to comfortable to get out of them.
      Really? The salespeople at the store which brand they sell told you they like it?
      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

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      • rider
        eyes of the world
        • Jun 2009
        • 1560

        New Exhibition in Israel at Design Museum Holon.
        Yohji Yamamoto's Museum Style By Yasha Wallin

        Yohji Yamamoto, champion of the avant-garde, has built an empire crafting ready-to-wear clothing brilliantly complex in texture, fabric, and tailoring. Simple lines and a penchant for androgyny create striking effects, and a dark, primarily black palette is playful in its execution.

        Opening today, the Japanese designer's work will be celebrated in Israel for the first time at Design Museum Holon, as part of a series of traveling museum exhibitions. Along with Chief Curator Galit Gaon, Yamamoto conceived an installation specific to Holon's Ron Arad-designed building, comprised of nearly 80 pieces of men's and womenswear, ranging from his 1977 debut collection in Tokyo, his popular collaborations with brands like Adidas (Y-3), and pieces from the present day.

        While his work is often moody and dramatic, this exhibition instead parallels the vibrant and colorful spirit of its host country, incorporating sound, bright hues and light to reveal a side of the designer that audiences are rarely privy to. Interview sat down Gaon for an insider's perspective on organizing this monumental showing.


        YASHA WALLIN: Yohji Yamamoto has had exhibitions of his oeuvre in London, Paris, and Florence. What about this show will be different?

        GALIT GAON: Every exhibition of Yohji Yamamoto's is a site-specific installation. This one became about the experience of how people are in Israel, which is very open, very honest; they're touching each other, having fun. There's something about being here that's very human.

        We're a young museum with no collection, so we're still free of the constraints of really big, serious museums. The major thing that artists have to interact with is the architecture of the building. With our museum, the aim is to create/extend this experience of experiments of faith and energy from the architecture of the building and take that inside to the galleries.

        What Yohji Yamamoto did was to create three different energies in the museum by using the garments and the space itself. When you enter the museum, you see the lower gallery, which is very hectic and the energy is very high. Then you go into the second room and it's more about observation and curiosity. You walk slower, you have to look closely, and you can spend a lot of time intimately connecting with the outfits. In the upper gallery, the whole space is floating in a red cloud of light, and in the center is the "tree of light" created from 275 bulbs. It's a very holy place, not in the sense of a holy place for Christians, Muslims, or Jews, but rather it has the overall sense of holiness. It's the foundation of the whole thing and will mean different things to different people around the world.

        WALLIN: Is this the first solo exhibition of an international artist that Design Museum Holon has had?

        GAON: It's our first solo exhibition, period. But it was our opportunity to have an exhibition of a wonderful creator. I'm not sure if people in Israel have really had a chance to see his clothes firsthand. A lot of people are wearing Yohji Yamamoto, going to Europe and buying him, and some men I know are wearing him every day. For them it's going to be a celebration. For the rest of us, it's going to be an introduction of non-everyday, simple things that you wear.

        I think eventually what we're trying to do here is open up the discussion of how you teach people to choose better. I think design is one of the best tools you can use for that. After seeing this exhibition, maybe the next time you go select something from to a minimal shop you might think again about the details. You might see something else. You might re-look/re-feel the texture and different process of choosing. If you choose better, you recycle, you buy fewer products. You buy one very good chair, not 10 terrible chairs. In turn, it makes our life much better. Maybe it's too optimistic, but I really feel we can make this change really slowly. If we work with kids, and teenagers, in 10 years they're going to be the guys who decide major things in the Israeli economy, if they know that design is a very important part of their lives it's going to benefit all of us.

        WALLIN: Yohji Yamamoto's work is considered avant-garde, but at the same time revered by many. Why do you think his aesthetic is so far-reaching?

        GAON: Because I think Yohji is designing clothes for people. It's not about him, it's about us. Yesterday we were looking at this piece with the textiles folding again and again: layers upon layers. When you put it on, it looks like you had to dress yourself for two hours, but someone on Yohji's team said, "Do you want to know how to put it on?" And he pointed to just one button. This is what makes it so appealing and so human and honest. And in this way his humor comes through.

        WALLIN: As a curator working in Israel, how do you navigate the cultural protests that some artists impose on the country? For example, Alice Walker recently forbade The Color Purple from being translated into Hebrew.

        GAON: We have a long discussion with every guest that comes here about the situation and what it means to be in a place like this. We've only had one artist tell us he's not going to participate and we fully understood that. It was hard to hear but we respected his choice. We hope that one day we will actually succeed in creating a change in this region. We really hope that things are going to get better. The only thing you can do is stay very, very optimistic.

        Comment

        • rider
          eyes of the world
          • Jun 2009
          • 1560

          finally something from y's [as of late] i can wrap my head around.
          who's designing y's these days anyway? last seasons were ill fitting and very nondescript, rather ordinary. i hope this is an indicator of more to come for fall y's.
          Attached Files

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          • malevich
            Member
            • Jun 2012
            • 54

            found some nice picture from the recent Israel Exhibition:


            i really love these pale black colours and the detailing and some nice studio pictures of his also


            nice creative process out there..

            Comment

            • jippos
              Member
              • Mar 2007
              • 81

              I must be out of the loop; I thought Y's had been discontinued. Maybe just the men's? I was disappointed in this turn of events, as mainline YY can be a bit precious for everyday wear, for me. And by precious, I don't mean cutesy, or anything like that; just that the fabrics can be a bit more delicate than I like, especially as I wear my clothing pretty hard. Y's was for me a great balancing act; much of the interesting cuts/shapes/detailing of the mainline, but with fabrics I didn't need to worry about too much, a little rougher....

              Anyway, hopefully this means that Y's is still keepin' on.

              Comment

              • teeteet
                Senior Member
                • Dec 2009
                • 111

                Y's men has been discontinued. Y's women remains. I face the same issue with YYPH, fabric can be delicate at times. Seen some Y-3 pieces online remarkably similar to YYPH, yet to see it in real.

                Comment

                • stadsvandringar
                  Senior Member
                  • Aug 2008
                  • 217

                  Yes, YYPH fabrics can be delicate, but the newer collections represent a fairly large range. Often there are a fair number of pieces in a collection that do not show up on the runway. Rougher, less formal and harder-wearing materials are also used. Most seasons yohji has been producing some kind of distressed denim, for example. I think part of the problem is that unless you actually go to a yohji store, most places tend to only get bits and pieces of a collection.

                  Comment

                  • teeteet
                    Senior Member
                    • Dec 2009
                    • 111

                    I was at the Paris store earlier this month, Etienne Marcel shop, and there was nothing much. The entire ground floor and part of the basement are dedicated to women's, not much YYPH at all. Transition, maybe?

                    Comment

                    • Burlingame
                      Junior Member
                      • May 2011
                      • 16

                      I'm surprised to hear people describing YYPH fabrics as "delicate." I have the opposite reaction. The wool gabardine, among the most-used fabrics in YYPH, is really sturdy in my experience. Some of the cotton jersey stuff I've recently seen looked new like it had already been through the wash a hundred times, so it would be unlikely to change shape or color just from regular use. And it was fairly thick so it didn't seem like you could wear through it easily like with a Rick t or something. Then there's the heavy cotton twill...

                      I guess the silk jackets and garments of that nature could be seen as delicate. But they're so beautiful I don't even care. Of course it depends on the item, but in general I think it's designed for lots of wear (after all, Yohji wants you to make it "dirty" http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/colum...ting-edge.html)

                      Comment

                      • 333
                        Senior Member
                        • Apr 2012
                        • 101

                        I think it's both.

                        Some are tough but there are items that feels really delicate. I've got a SS12 jersey cotton pants and the fabric is really delicate. Thinner then a t-shirt! Also another pleated cotton trouser for the same season is very thin as well. I do enjoy the soft fabric since it's endless summer where I am. Seems that he work with a lot of different soft fabric for SS. Comfort level is definitely high for Yohji's stuff.

                        But the wool gabardine stuff are tough, of course.

                        Comment

                        • teeteet
                          Senior Member
                          • Dec 2009
                          • 111

                          Anyone who is a fan of YY knows the wool gabardine is sturdy and durable. I too bought a jersey cotton trousers from SS12 and tore it after wearing it twice. Same with the silk pieces, but I suppose one has to get used to wearing silk, but the jersey cotton was just too thin. Looks good though!

                          Comment

                          • Burlingame
                            Junior Member
                            • May 2011
                            • 16

                            wow, sorry to hear that. I know the cotton jersey pants you're talking about. I didn't imagine they'd be that fragile. that's disappointing.

                            Comment

                            • teeteet
                              Senior Member
                              • Dec 2009
                              • 111

                              Well, for cotton to be this thin, it won't last for many wears. The same happened to my RO pieces, so it's not just Yohji pieces.

                              Comment

                              • elephantstone
                                Senior Member
                                • Jan 2011
                                • 111

                                while you can always choose linen instead...I love Yohji's linen pieces. Breathable and durable, perfect for summer

                                Comment

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