Aitor Throup Men's FW13 - London

[Faust]

I wonder how much will be the skull backpack? Will I have to sell my kidney )

Yes, you will.

[kunk75]

what grown man wants a skull backpack?

anyway, the more I look, the more it looks like an acronym installation piece

[Patroklus]

i do. if growing up means hating skull backpacks and open toe thigh highs i'd rather be a grown child

but i want a suit of mesh maile most of all
black post-knight from dystopian new new london

[arby2001]

It's quite cool, of course, but nothing revolutionary, and most of it is a bit too theatrical for my taste. I can appreciate what goes into his work but this is the guy you hear a lot about and has yet to deliver anything...it's more art than clothing.

[AKA*NYC]

what grown man wants a skull backpack?

i know one overgrown child that does

[Patroklus]

It's quite cool, of course, but nothing revolutionary, and most of it is a bit too theatrical for my taste. I can appreciate what goes into his work but this is the guy you hear a lot about and has yet to deliver anything...it's more art than clothing.

he just delivered an entire collection

[Faust]

he just delivered an entire collection

[Faust]

what grown man wants a skull backpack?

I do.

[SHYE_POSER]

Amongst the throngs of the sartorially dressed, on and off the catwalks/presentations during LONDON MENS COLLECTIONS...thank fuck for Aitor.

Some of the piece do have a sportswear feel, as this is one of his loves.
I found the collection was a great balance between, sportswear,utility,tailoring,practicality. Most importantly everything was incredibly wearable.

The Mongolian rider coat pictured both on the horse and mannequin, is made from a beautiful grey herringbone tweed wool(I think) Very substantial.
Athlough there where a plethora of details such as zips,flaps,glove and the quilted seat(which I'm sure i detachable), is rather minimal in look and silhouette. One of my fave details of the piece is how the lower part of the coat wraps/attaches itself to the leg whilst in the riding position.

The realisation from concept to conception was perfect.

The other pieces such as the denim outfit and tee had been styled with a parka/safari type jacket and the skull back pack. Once again details,cut and finishing prevail. Sportswear tech meets artisanal finishing.
i would easily have the denim jacket and jeans in my wardrobe as a constant. The sleeves of the denim jacket are lined with a stretch mesh, ended with an elastic thumb loop. The buttons, matte black, are closed by loops, rather than button holes.

The saxophone player outfit was another standout, which showcased his talents as a tailor. Take away all the additional detailing around the neck, and I'm sure there is an immaculately cut jacket.

and we get to the finishing. The piece to piece method, mixed with the metlock and stitching not only enables Aitor to create his concepts into products, its instantly identifiable as him (as has been mentioned, and if the garments where not instantly identifiable then we got problems)
Yes, like many elements have been borrowed but it is the final execution that counts here.

Those in Paris will be able to handle the collection and give a more detailed account.

Ending my intoxicated, almost fan boy ramblings.
Following Aitors progress over the years has been nothing but inspirational to myself for varying reasons. To see parts of the vision and concept fully realised as a collection was amazing. The relief was seen on the guys face.

Great job and well fucking done my son!

[SHYE_POSER]

I wanted to comment in this thread, and being yet to see any of it I refrained after posts like this one.

I didn't quite understand what you meant by this.

[lost53]

the garments, the presentation, the ideas, its all there in bags.

Can anyone elaborate on the "sock" type finish to the trousers. Is this an incorporated shoe?

[erdweir]

I get a sort of post apocalyptic/bleakness vibe from this which might be coming from the colours but definitely from the use of faceless hunched over mannequins (that look like they're deteriorating) as 'models', and for me that backs up the idea of essential archetypal pieces as you wouldn't want more than that if you were trying to survive the world. No idea if this is the intention though...

I agree, I read this work as a meditation on death and militarism. The skulls, the fallen wire mesh figures, and the ashen tones are quite grim, even to someone like me. The shot of the field jacket, together with the harness of the backpack looks really 'tactical'.

The details are often very unusual, and don't really jump out at you. This requires a second or third look to absorb everything.

Is this an expression of the currently endemic apocalyptic fantasy/fear? They could be used as costumes for yet another post apocalyptic film...

I don't see that any new classics are in evidence, but I cant really say without seeing the show in person. I wold definitely like to see this work up close.

[safeword123]

Came across this little passage on Style.com, and thought i should share. I didn't read this thread completely, apologies if the info. is repetitive

Throup’s presentation in a gallery in King’s Cross (above) was titled New Object Research, but the parentheses were more significant: (The full reveal of the first complete ready-to-wear collection). Twenty pieces arranged in four looks is scarcely complete in any traditional sense, but it was the culmination of six years of work, and six years of intense optimism on the part of industry insiders who’ve patiently clung to the conviction that Throup brings something unique to fashion. It was certainly on display here in the extraordinary construction of the clothes and the stark beauty of their presentation. Throup is a man obsessed. All he wants is a new way to do things, and once he has mastered that way, he would love it to become an industry standard. You haven’t appreciated a buttonhole until you’ve heard him detail the process with which he closes his garments. And to hear him talk about the perfect shoulder is surely a glimpse of what Cristobal Balenciaga’s acquaintances must have endured as Cris nattered on about sleeves.

[BSR]

Came across this little passage on Style.com, and thought i should share. I didn't read this thread completely, apologies if the info. is repetitive

2 pages: what an effort indeed

[Faust]

Went to see the collection properly set up in Paris today. The construction of the clothes leaves everything else - let me repeat, everything else - in the dust. The complexity of workmanship is just on another level.