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The man in Ackermann

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  • roupas
    Junior Member
    • Jan 2009
    • 27

    The man in Ackermann

    There's an interview with Haider Ackermann in last week's Knack Weekend, a Flemish magazine. It's by far the best I read from him and gives great insight to his work. Here's a translation I made. I'll try to get some scans up so you can see the pics that go with the text as well.


    As a child, he dreamt of becoming the pope. Now his name strongly appeals on the fashion calendar and he’s been asked by Martin Margiela as his successor. “That was one of the most beautiful meetings in my life;”

    “Does he prefer French, Dutch or English?” I asked his press agent when I’m preparing my questions some days before the interview. “French, English or German are all fine”, she replied. “Neither is Dutch, as Haider spent his youth in Amsterdam”. At the end of the interview, he’ll say that he’s currently learning to speak Spanish, for a very special reason.

    Haider Ackermann (37) must be destined to become a globetrotter. Born in Colombia, he was adopted by French parents who –depending on his father’s work – created a house in Algeria, in Ethiopia, or later in the Netherlands. Everywhere except from France. There (in Paris) Ackermann settled down only a few years ago when after his studies at the Antwerp Fashion Academie he had the feeling that Antwerp would be “too obvious” as a home base.

    That can count, this nomadic life. But it is of course Ackermann’s professional career which brings us to a table in the museumbar Camu in Antwerp. When the designer walks in with a Knack Weekend under his arm, “something to read for in case you hadn’t arrived yet”, some old friends, happy to be able to greet Ackermann on Belgian soil, discreetly put their hands in the air. He looks relaxed, intriguing with those dark curls and the open look in his eyes. “This morning I felt like wearing purple”, he says, referring to his violet v-neck and long, deep purple scarf. “It doesn’t happen often that I wear such a talking colour. My associates at the atelier were surprised when they saw me. I feel very good at the moment, yes”, he calmly smiles. And the designer has every reason to feel so. Since his start in 2002, international recognition for his wrap and draping talent and his perfect leather jackets has grown every season, and his current winter collection was enthusiastically welcomed half a year ago when it was showed in Paris for the press and buyers. The enthousiasm was evident when the fashion press labeled it “one of the most beautiful women’s collections of the season” and was also clear when the attending public started to applaud even before the show’s end.

    Were you aware when still backstage that the public was reacting so ecstatically?

    No, that was very strange. I still don’t understand. I’m never satisfied with a collection, I always think it could have gone differently. But I noted before the show frpm the models that they were nervous to go on-stage. The girls are always a good measure and they asked before whether they could have specific garments. I felt the tension coming forward, but I wasn’t expect the public’s reaction.
  • roupas
    Junior Member
    • Jan 2009
    • 27

    #2
    Tell us about how the current collection came to be.

    I wanted to dress a woman who was lost, searching for something indefinable and only carrying her mental luggage. A woman coming from no-man’s land, draping herself in strong fabrics and starting a journey. She doesn’t know why she’s running away and she doesn’t know what she’s looking for. But she’s a brave woman, because you don’t start such a journey on your own. In being a woman, she’s looking for her masculinity.

    And as a symbol for that masculinity, you chose strong dark colours, and deep red accents?

    Those fabrics in Bordeaux have an aristocratic appeal to me. I like deep colours, especially when a woman has a pale skin. It is fascinating to see her nobility coming forward. It’s a colour symbolizing that this woman doesn’t feel desperately abandoned.

    Coming soon

    Haider Ackermann is a thinker. Someone who doesn’t speak cheaply, he balances his words in the same way he drapes his fabrics when looking for purified constructions. Questions which require some self analysis are answered with nuances. “My style? It is often described as sensual and mysterious, but I don’t like designers to be given only one label. There are many elements which have an influence. My collections are borne from my feelings, my past in Africa and specific things I encounter in every day life. Everything I know melts together on that moment.”

    Didn’t the pope’s clothes also have an influence on you?

    (smiles) How do you know that? I did indeed dream of becoming the pope because he was wearing such beautiful garments. I don’t think I’m suited for that position anymore.

    But you had a calling to become a designer at a very young age.

    When you’re a small child walking through the medinas of Algeria, where you can see veiled spirits and ghosts wander through narrow streets, you’re intrigued by these images. You want to know what’s under the curtains, where the great mystery and this sensuality are coming from. Those are my roots as a fashion designer. I wanted to decipher the totally different world hidden underneath those fabrics. Years later I went to the Fashion Academy, which wasn’t an evident time in my life. I wasn’t always sufficiently mature, was more in wonder land. But they’ve been rich years, I’ve learned to think down to earth.

    How does a label of seven years old deal with this time of crisis.

    The crisis is an interesting thing. It makes it easier to create a collection, as the choice of fabrics is more reduced and you have to come up with creative solutions, not everything is possible anymore. But … (on an almost whispering tone) we’re not feeling anything on the financial side. Really not. The buying requests increase every season.

    Comment

    • roupas
      Junior Member
      • Jan 2009
      • 27

      #3
      You’re still given logistic support by bvba 32, Ann Demeulemeester and her business partner Anne Chapelle’s company. Do you still feel comfortable under that roof?

      Yes, it’s very comfortable to be able to use their expertise and production network. That way, I only need to focus on the creative process. There, you’re part of a team with every member looking in the same direction. The horizon is our goal. I’m still thankful for that support.

      Why does your website still read “coming soon” after seven years?

      Well, I’m not much of an internet person. Maybe I’m too old fashioned. Nowadays, you can see and find everything on the internet. Via Facebook and all those things. That’s nothing for me. I know I should work on the website. But that just takes away the romance, because people will want to find specific, direct things on there. I never visit other’s websites. The less I know on something, the more I’ll be surprised on the spot. I have to admit I read La Libération and Le Figaro online every morning. So I know where to find my computer. But there’s no rush in having my own site.

      Anne Chapelle, who supports you on the business side, recently said that a designer is nothing without an ego, to get his strength from. How big is yours?

      I think every human being has an ego, wants to prove something and wants to be respected. I think that’s a nice thing, proof that you’re striving for something. Whether it’s in love, art or friendship. It’s not a bad thing to be striving for something, to have an ego. As long as it’s limited, which is the case with mine. Don’t we all want to mean something in this society, if not for ourselves then for others?

      I’m your man

      That Ackermann is still not comfortable after seven years and despite the good numbers, is illustrated by his anxiety popping up twice a year when the new season comes in sight. “Right now, I’m working on the 2010 spring collection. This means more anxiety attacks. Every season I have to swim through murky waters and try to find my way. With the collections becoming better and press coverage increasing, it only becomes more difficult. The expectations are higher and you want to do better than last season, because you weren’t happy about that one. And yet you continue from there, even if it’s not clear from the start. The only thing that’s clear from the start, is my choice of music.

      Your most recent show in Paris was programmed for 11 in the morning and you chose for a song by Leonard Cohen. Was it a conscious decision to have such an emotional show so early on the day?

      We had never done a show so early. I wanted the people to enter, and us to look in a peaceful rest. Just like when you wake up. That’s why I had the models walk slowly. No one likes to be woken abruptly. I wanted to give the audience a point of rest during the hectic fashion week, if not through the collection than at least through the music. The choice for Leonard Cohen’s I’m your man was evident. That voice, that sensuality. It perfectly fits the masculinity of the clothes. And I was at one of his concerts just before, that was inexplicably beautiful.

      Comment

      • roupas
        Junior Member
        • Jan 2009
        • 27

        #4
        The British journalist Suzy Menkes wrote after the show that you were first in line to succeed Martin Margiela. Were you asked to continue his Belgian label?

        (smiles in an apologizing way)

        He asked you.

        (nods)


        And?

        I rejected the offer. (silence) Everything has its time, you need to be ready. Of course I was honoured to meet Martin. Mister Margiela is the very reason why I went to study in Antwerp. It was a touching meeting, one of the most beautiful in my life. As moving as when I met Tilda Swinton, or the parfumier mister Lutens, or Nick Cave. Those are people who make you understand why you do this. I couldn’t believe my ears when I heard that it was Martin’s own idea to contact me. But … I first need to perfect my own signature. Although I do think that the code of another house would help me to go forward on a personal level. I still believe that the time has not come. The signature of the house of Margiela is avant garde and constructed graphically, while I work from a certain melancholy. And to be honest, who could replace or succeed Martin Margiela?

        Are there many requests from other houses to design for them?

        (hesitates)
        Yes, there are many requests and sometimes it is difficult to reject them. You get to meet people from the US who want to let you come over. But again, everything has its time. I have to feel ready and shouldn’t jeopardize my own life. I’m too young to be cut in two. But those requests can be very stimulating, like applause after a show or dressing Tilda Swinton for the Oscars.

        Were you right to move to Paris?

        I moved to Paris a few years ago out of love for the city. I’m French, so I felt the urge to live in France for the first time in my life. It was good to spread my wings and leave Antwerp. I need to be able to walk around anonymously in a city, to get lost during the night. Paris’ elegance at night is inspiring. My atelier is my cocoon. I have a view on an inner court, perhaps the most beautiful in Paris. But I only let a few people in. I like to be alone in my world.

        You’ve said on many occasions that you don’t feel the need to travel to Colombia, the country where you were born. Still no tingling feeling?

        (quiet)Yes. I’ll be going for the first time next year. It’s time to be confronted with who I am, with a part of me that’s always been a mistery. We all have our past. That travel may help to answer some questions.

        Comment

        • roupas
          Junior Member
          • Jan 2009
          • 27

          #5
          Do you want to look for your biological parents?

          I’d rather not answer that. But I’ll go with three friends and my parents. I have the best parents who have given a lot of freedom to their children. I’ve also started with Spanish classes. It’s a frightening prospect, I don’t know how I’ll react to it. But something will come from it. I couldn’t have done this before. Now I feel that I have to do it.

          Comment

          • gerry
            Senior Member
            • Feb 2008
            • 309

            #6
            ^ Shit, man... Beautiful article. Thanks a lot.

            Comment

            • mass
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2006
              • 1131

              #7
              thanks for the post

              Comment

              • crz
                Senior Member
                • Apr 2008
                • 373

                #8
                thanks so much for taking the time to translate (and type?) this yourself!
                Haider is amazing

                Comment

                • Catfood
                  Senior Member
                  • Oct 2008
                  • 485

                  #9
                  Very good interview. Thanks for posting this. I like haider a lot, probably my favorite women's wear designer right now.

                  Comment

                  • galia
                    Senior Member
                    • Jun 2009
                    • 1702

                    #10
                    Amazing, Thank you

                    Comment

                    • Faust
                      kitsch killer
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 37849

                      #11
                      Thanks for posting. Although I think the last question is quite insensitive.
                      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                      StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                      Comment

                      • dolochov
                        Senior Member
                        • Aug 2009
                        • 112

                        #12
                        Thank you for posting this, his answers deliver an interesting insight into his aesthetics, especially the part about his youth in africa. I like his frank personality, not every designer would admit that he isn't happy with his collections.

                        Comment

                        • zamb
                          Senior Member
                          • Nov 2006
                          • 5834

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Faust View Post
                          Thanks for posting. Although I think the last question is quite insensitive.
                          On the surface and coming from a fashion magazine, you may be correct
                          but his genetics is a fundamental part of who he is. A critical aspect of how he thinks and acts. I personally would like to see how it would influence him as a person, at ultimately his work, if he were to meet them.
                          “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                          .................................................. .......................


                          Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                          Comment

                          • btbam
                            Senior Member
                            • Nov 2008
                            • 246

                            #14
                            Thank you for posting. I too found the last question insensitive, but can see Zamb's POV.

                            Great read, thank you.
                            Never End, Australia.
                            http://www.neverend.com.au
                            General Contact: Info@neverend.com.au
                            Urgent contact: Joseph@neverend.com.au
                            Phone: +61 421 406 272

                            Comment

                            • christianef
                              Senior Member
                              • Feb 2009
                              • 747

                              #15
                              aw yes i wanted to post this. i was very excited to read this article when i first saw it. he's a very intriguing man. im glad he passed on margiela, doesn't seem like the very fitting direction for him though it would have been interesting to see what he would have designed under this label. Plus, Cohen and Cave aha his aesthetic isnt the only thing that echos ann. atleast the belgians all have good taste!

                              Comment

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