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OBSCUR AW13 "ÖVERGÅNG"

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  • OBSCUR AW13 "ÖVERGÅNG"


  • #2

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    • #3

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      • #4
        > 1/ Can you tell us the title of this collection ?
        "Övergång" - means transition in Swedish.
        >
        > 2/ Can you tell us the concept and themes behind it ?
        We are this season "transitioning" into another way of developing our collection. We are only two persons working on the collection, and we have upon till now been very limited in our way of working. From working with people literally all over the world we have found that to be able to create an amazing collection or array of garments, one must forget the pride of doing something completely on your own. We have searched for a very long time for craftsmen that will help us push our work further in terms of quality and technical solutions and we believe we have found these people.

        These craftsmen and the possibilities we are given when working together has been a great inspiration in itself. I believe that the more pure and minimalistic feel you strive for with a garment the more thought out and better quality it has to be given.

        And in this is also the concept - to create very minimalistic silhouettes, and by doing so it enables us to alter the proportions of the body in the eye of the beholder.

        .

        >
        > 3/ Can you tell us what inspired you this time ? ( Movies , music , artists , places , experiences , news , history etc )


        My inspirations are more connected witH non defined time periods rather than chosen collections. I am right now inspired a lot by my childhood, and the way I grew up. I was totally in love with walking around in my fathers orthopedic workshop in which I saw everything from liquids that all behaved differently to solid metal joints and prosthetic legs and arms.

        .

        i have always been interested in the deformities and the things / people / objects that do not "FIT IN". I feel very much like an outsider myself and I guess the creativity in combination with working with my hands is sort of a therapy, or a retribution.

        When I was younger I also recall myself looking at classic tailoring as something so definite for a male like me to wear when growing up, there could be nothing else. I still believe that part of it is true and I think that is visible in this collection


        >
        > 4/ What are the main colors of the collection / anything new ? Why ?
        Color is partly important, even though it shouldn't. Color is a way of tricking the eye from what is really important - the building/structure and material of the garment. It's a one way for designers to trick the audience in thinking that he/she is doing something "new".

        But if people buy into that - why not try it?


        > 5/ What are the main fabrics of the collection / anything new ? Why ?
        This season we are mostly using fabrics from Italy, where we tried a little more classic approach instead of the usually treated and distressed. The fabrics are nothing until they are assembled into garments - and by then they are EVERYTHING.

        >
        > 6/ Can you tell us if there are any new designs / shapes / ideas which you have introduced this time ? Why ?
        Like said before deformation and the play with proportions is very interesting to me, but also I tried to capture a little bit more of the practical aspect. To have pockets in the right places, detachable/attachable parts of garments that serve a purpose in different weather conditions. Bags with welded metal parts underneath so you can put down your bag anywhere without worrying about it getting dirty or destroyed. Where I live the winter really takes its toll on the garments, and I want things to last - especially when I'm wearing them In my hard way
        >
        > 7/ How do you see this collection fitting into this time and space : A/W 2013 ?

        "Fit in? ; -)"
        Last edited by Guest; 01-20-2013, 06:47 AM.

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        • #5
          from what I can see, there is few basic pieces and pants that looks good. outerwear looks well crafted and functional but this leprechaun green just ripped my eyes and pissed into sockets. love this high-collar coat and off-white jacket.

          boots are a little bit..well.. ugly. sorry.

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          • brettwagg
            Member
            • Jan 2013
            • 75

            #6
            I think all of this is great, minus the lime green coat and boats. It looks so out of place in contrast with everything else. Curious to see what else is going to be in this collection, as these photos were posted this morning with the description "Parts of the collection selected for photos"

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            • Patroklus
              Banned
              • Feb 2011
              • 1675

              #7
              i think this is a big step forward for obscur. more restraint, and it made for a better collection than in the past, because now the good ideas are a lot more obvious.

              also the leather on those first boots is a nice color, i'm going to be doing some radaghast the brown cosplay for a lord of the rings convention next year (details to come) they are perfect

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              • Enaml
                Senior Member
                • Apr 2009
                • 890

                #8
                this looks good. obviously some potential CCP references here and there (that coat, for example), but whatever. Not close enough to bother me, at least. That green blazer is sick. I want it.
                How do you guys like the fit of my new CCP suit?

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                • darkbydesign
                  Senior Member
                  • Sep 2010
                  • 817

                  #9
                  As much as I don't want to like it, I'm pretty obsessed with the color of that lime green leather jacket.... Because I've looked at it and the texture like 20 times, I guess that means I'm gonna have to hunt it down in person.

                  Overall, a pretty refined Obscur collection.

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                  • AVerdantShore
                    Senior Member
                    • Jan 2011
                    • 112

                    #10
                    I've just moved back to the woods a few months ago, so there are clearly no Obscur dealers locally, not they really sold in NYC, anyways, but has anyone had a chance to inspect earlier iterations of their footwear? I actually quite like the shoe last shape from photos that I've seen, but I didn't know if anyone could chime in, regarding the quality and make. Despite the occasionally raw elements of the shoes, there is something elegant and refined about them, that I appreciate, outside of the crazily zippered pieces.

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                    • en0rm
                      Senior Member
                      • May 2010
                      • 178

                      #11
                      Good interview and some great pieces in the collection..especially that grey coat looks really interesting!
                      Not sure about the green...strange somehow

                      Comment

                      • keilani
                        Member
                        • Jan 2012
                        • 43

                        #12
                        Not sure about the green aswell, but I love the footwear.

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                        • modalsaliency
                          Senior Member
                          • May 2010
                          • 120

                          #13
                          Originally posted by AVerdantShore View Post
                          I've just moved back to the woods a few months ago, so there are clearly no Obscur dealers locally, not they really sold in NYC, anyways, but has anyone had a chance to inspect earlier iterations of their footwear? I actually quite like the shoe last shape from photos that I've seen, but I didn't know if anyone could chime in, regarding the quality and make. Despite the occasionally raw elements of the shoes, there is something elegant and refined about them, that I appreciate, outside of the crazily zippered pieces.
                          They're made in Japan unlike most Obscur and while it's hard to find the tannery they source leather from (it's certianly not Guidi), I can't find any fault with the pair I own.

                          Though I haven't checked out S/S, in earlier seasons they had some consistency issues with sizing and I usually dislike the toebox, but aside from that I'd put them up there with something BBS in terms of actual construction.

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                          • zamb
                            Senior Member
                            • Nov 2006
                            • 5834

                            #14
                            Originally posted by modalsaliency View Post
                            They're made in Japan unlike most Obscur and while it's hard to find the tannery they source leather from (it's certianly not Guidi), I can't find any fault with the pair I own.

                            Though I haven't checked out S/S, in earlier seasons they had some consistency issues with sizing and I usually dislike the toebox, but aside from that I'd put them up there with something BBS in terms of actual construction.
                            the current season is made in italy,
                            also the clothing

                            i havent seen the clothing as yet, but I saw and tried on some footwear today and its really good.
                            “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                            .................................................. .......................


                            Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

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                            • diamonds
                              Senior Member
                              • Dec 2006
                              • 591

                              #15
                              very pleased by this collection. previous have been too costume goth for me but this is really something special.

                              really like the stiff looking fabrics... beautiful stitching on the leather too

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