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Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme FW11 Paris

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  • Mail-Moth
    Senior Member
    • Mar 2009
    • 1448

    #16
    I love all of it.
    This skeletton knit is certainly something I'd enjoy wearing.
    Same goes for the greenish suit on the third pic, and the second pinstripe suit. Or one of those clergyman's outfits. Or one of the patchwork ones.

    Every time I come back to those photographs I find there's something more to like, so there's no point going on.

    (Oh - and the dove coat with this scarf/lapel thing).

    And above all, I love the mix of playfulness and deeper notes - like displaying clownesque avatars of death, sin, and lust. Yohji deserves admiration for being able to express his fear and regrets in such a cheerful way.
    I can see a hat, I can see a cat,
    I can see a man with a baseball bat.

    Comment

    • chameleon
      Senior Member
      • Jun 2008
      • 387

      #17
      I think this is really really fantastic. I love it, and it makes me both happy and relieved that he delivered something like this.

      The silhouettes, details are all there. The fabric looks gorgeous (i did a double take on the close-up of the pinstripes, like wire pointed out). He cuts the best pants, I wouldn't mind every single one displayed here. The oatmeal speckled shawlcollared coat is astrounding, and I love the muted grey-greenish pants they're paired with. Really like the first couple of looks, the second suit jacket first reminded me of a more tailored version of the deconstructed lapel jackets form ss03. Lots of details that are reworked, and work really well.

      While the doves in ss08 tied in well with the "remnants of a defeated army"-theme from that collection, these birds close-up seem to be more of an aggressive bird-of-prey, I guess thematically ties in better with the bones and skeletons. And yeah, that coat is really something else.

      Really great stuff.


      edit: also, as wire pointed out, seeing these pieces in person makes a difference. While I enjoyed aw10 on the runway, touching and trying things on really made me appreciate it so much more.

      Big thanks to tweeds for taking the time to post these. Cheers

      Comment

      • Pumpfish
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2010
        • 513

        #18
        Come on Raf and Rick, where do you stand on the Size 0 debate.

        I'm really loving the sizes and shapes.

        And this looks like an ode to you M-M.
        spinning glue back into horses. . .

        Comment

        • Atom
          Senior Member
          • Sep 2009
          • 310

          #19
          Originally posted by Eternal
          ...listening to Misfits and all.
          Fixed.

          I love the patchwork suit and teddy boy references, hate the shoes. There's a difference between casual and too casual.

          Comment

          • Fade to Black
            Senior Member
            • Sep 2008
            • 5340

            #20
            the footwear in this collection is about as Yohji as it gets, don't see what the fuss is about. If you like boots/'proper' shoes, wear those. I like sneakers.
            www.matthewhk.net

            let me show you a few thangs

            Comment

            • Mail-Moth
              Senior Member
              • Mar 2009
              • 1448

              #21
              Originally posted by Eternal
              Although I love the tailoring in this collection and it's a pleasure to the eye, there are still elements I find ironic, and I don't really like ironic clothing ( leave it to the hipsters).

              What I do find strange though, is that there is nothing about that overweight man in a pair of wide cuffed cord trousers, sneakers and a knit that appeals to me.

              I also find it strange that the skeletton knit is something people seem to like, when the same people think that Julius had too much of a teenage goth thing going on, and that those references were too strong.

              I think something like that knit was worn by some of my classmates in junior high, that were really hardcore in their own perspectives, listening to Iron Maiden and all. Not going to start a fight, as I love most of the collection and the hues and fabrics looks amazing from the close ups, just addressing something I never understood.
              That's an interesting point, and i'll try to answer as clearly as I can.

              First, irony is not for hipsters. Hipsters are simply making fun of things that were worthless to begin with, imagining that making those things part of their culture through derision somewhat shows the extense of their own aptitude not to take themselves seriously. At least, this is how I understand it.

              Taking death as a bad joke is a whole different matter. I don't see that in the gothic movement, nor in Julius, BTW - or in thoses cases it is mixed with fascination and fear, in an attempt - and a very immature one - to make death a little more familiar, and an acceptable alternative, as a fantasy, to the even more frightening adult life. I was one of those kids you were talking about when I was younger - I was listening to metal and all, and was obsessed by the morbid aesthetics attached to it. My father once told me : "If only it could help you not to be afraid of death - but I doubt it's enough." As your average teenager I barely listened to the old man's ramble. What did he know ? He was always afraid of being sick ! He was the one in fear, when I was already prepared to rot away. I was listening to the proper music, reading the proper books : death was my closest friend.

              Years later I simply can say that he was right. Death is simply an ugly reality. And a very ordinary one. Nothing like a grandiose apocalypse of the self. I can imagine Yohji feeling that he has entered the last chapter of his life. What's to be done with death ? A comfy knit. I mean, at least it will keep us warm for once. Yes - a bad joke. What else can we do ?

              This is irony - of a very tender, very human sort.
              Last edited by Mail-Moth; 01-21-2011, 10:12 AM.
              I can see a hat, I can see a cat,
              I can see a man with a baseball bat.

              Comment

              • marco-von
                Senior Member
                • Feb 2009
                • 133

                #22


                Comment

                • Johnny
                  Senior Member
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 1923

                  #23
                  Fuck me, great post MM.

                  Comment

                  • marco-von
                    Senior Member
                    • Feb 2009
                    • 133

                    #24
                    you don't get to see the patchwork (screen printed suits?) unfortunately but a handful of the other outfits.

                    the footwear is horrible indeed but funnily enough i didn't notice them till reading the comments because i was too busy focusing on the clothing or maybe because it was finely in tune with the overall effect.

                    Comment

                    • Mail-Moth
                      Senior Member
                      • Mar 2009
                      • 1448

                      #25
                      Thanks Marco-Von !
                      Does anyone know what the soundtrack is ?
                      I can see a hat, I can see a cat,
                      I can see a man with a baseball bat.

                      Comment

                      • marco-von
                        Senior Member
                        • Feb 2009
                        • 133

                        #26
                        ^MM

                        Fink - If only

                        Comment

                        • old
                          Senior Member
                          • Jul 2009
                          • 132

                          #27
                          Originally posted by Eternal
                          Although I love the tailoring in this collection and it's a pleasure to the eye, there are still elements I find ironic, and I don't really like ironic clothing ( leave it to the hipsters).

                          What I do find strange though, is that there is nothing about that overweight man in a pair of wide cuffed cord trousers, sneakers and a knit that appeals to me.

                          I also find it strange that the skeletton knit is something people seem to like, when the same people think that Julius had too much of a teenage goth thing going on, and that those references were too strong.

                          I think something like that knit was worn by some of my classmates in junior high, that were really hardcore in their own perspectives, listening to Iron Maiden and all. Not going to start a fight, as I love most of the collection and the hues and fabrics looks amazing from the close ups, just addressing something I never understood.
                          As I see it, there is still a difference between the post apocalytic reference of Julius and these skeleton sweaters.

                          With Julius, everything is carefully arranged to achieve that specific aesthetic which has been refered by some people as related to teenage fantasies, whereas the death motiv is kinda diliberately "misplaced" by Yohji on these chunky sweaters which seems humorous to me in a way (I mean it doesn't really comply with the teenage idea of edgy coolness). IMO this approach is only to be taken by a much more mature personality and really differs from that teenage mindset. Not sure if I'm making sense here
                          Tradition ist Bewahrung des Feuers und nicht Anbetung der Asche.

                          Comment

                          • Mail-Moth
                            Senior Member
                            • Mar 2009
                            • 1448

                            #28
                            Originally posted by marco-von View Post
                            ^MM

                            Fink - If only
                            I never should have asked. Listening to the album for the third time since you answered. I'm indulging too easily in this kind of things.
                            I can see a hat, I can see a cat,
                            I can see a man with a baseball bat.

                            Comment

                            • H-R
                              Senior Member
                              • May 2007
                              • 364

                              #29
                              Originally posted by wire.artist
                              I approve this message, great collection. I hate reviewing yohji from pictures...it's really all about the fabric and how it moves.


                              It has a lot of auto referential numbers, he's quoting himself. But I really like it, because he's refining some ideas. For example, the teddy boy collection has a lot in common with this. Same with the gypsy musicians one. SS07 doves.

                              I'm just fucking happy about this. I'll post my favourite looks later.
                              I'm buying all the tweeds and the khaki pants are glorious. The oatmeal shawl collar coat is sick.

                              The pinstripe 3 piece suit is....just look at the close up pics....NUTS

                              Maybe Goro is doing the jewelery

                              PS: I don't mind the footwear...yohji's clothing works with sneakers irl, even a pair of NB and you are good to go. He's always wearing red wing, george cox, not very luxury really.
                              Question is, is it self-referential or mere recycling of old ideas?

                              Comment

                              • TarHeart
                                Senior Member
                                • Jun 2009
                                • 252

                                #30
                                Originally posted by H-R View Post
                                Question is, is it self-referential or mere recycling of old ideas?
                                I thought this to myself as well. "Self-referential" sounds like an euphemism.
                                Although, I really like the way it sounds, because I don't want to
                                believe that Yohji is getting old and tired.

                                I was really happy to see this collection. I didn't think it was fantastic, but it was good.
                                It's so nice to see classic Yohji again, it really is.

                                I agree about the negative comments about the Y3-shoes.
                                They simply destroy and devaluate the feeling of the show.

                                Comment

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