Thought I?d bump this, since it?s an interesting thread, and also to add some thoughts. I got thinking about it again after reading through the thread on SF re justifying high prices for ?high end? clothing, which I think some of you were involved in.
I think I can only provide some random thoughts, not a philosophy as such, since one of those very thoughts is that I frequently change my view on fashion and what it means and should mean to me, and so any notion of a dogma or manifesto sits uneasily.
1 Clothes should make you look good. Or at least make you think that you look good. I don?t agree with cmf that you should never try, because trying and pushing yourself on a bit in terms of that way that you look is an interesting process, but you shouldn?t try too hard. I?m not sure that the other considerations that are relevant (like the image of the brand, the philosophy of the designer, the exclusivity of the product, or even quality) should really ever override this. In fact, this consideration is what I feel differentiates art and fashion (rather than just the commercial/non-commercial distinction, although that?s still relevant): fashion, essentially, is about vanity: it just has to be, because it?s a form of non-functional adornment of the body. The desire to dress up to attract someone of the sex of your choice is pretty irrepressible (I lifted that from something I read recently, but it struck a chord).
2 I think you find a natural balance to what you wear, combining a number of the points referred to above, and in other posts here. If you end up obsessing over any one of them at any particular time, you end up looking imbalanced and uncomfortable, and that?s when mistakes happen. I have been thinking a lot recently about buying one of those CCP leather jackets. I have been doing this in the knowledge that (a) I would not look good in it because I?ve never had or liked leather jackets before, they don?t suit me, my wife hates them and I?m too old for one now (the ageing rocker is not a good look) and (b) it?s too much money (in my own personal view). But still the desire to buy it was quite strong because of the whole CCP is great quality thing, CCP is an artisan with pure motives thing etc etc. These things are true, but when they start clouding your gut judgement on whether you actually will look or feel good in a thing, that?s where the imbalance lies.
3 Another way in which I think that balance is important is to not wear, head to toe, a full ?look?. There should be some break in the total look to allow at least some of the wearer?s personality to be apparent. I think this is probably something to do with being ?stylish?, but I?m never quite sure about that. Certainly I think being stylish requires some degree of confidence, which doesn?t seem obviously there if someone just does a whole ?look? from head to toe: that seems to be just agreeing with what someone else has suggested you wear. There was, I think, a comment made here a while ago about how there seemed to be a disconnect between what the guys in The Library or Atelier wore and the products that they sell. They guys in the Library wear converse trainers and jeans, but might have on a LUC knit and carpe jacket. I don?t know so much about the A guys. In Leclaireur there are some who do the top to toe dark-fashion-lord-look, but I think the ones that look better, less victim-y, are those who will wear some plain pants with Lanvin sneaks and plain shirt. My own ?balance? is usually to wear a well cut shirt and jacket, or a tee shirt and sweater, with some jeans and some bashed up shoes or non-branded sneakers. I?m NOT, suggesting that this is particularly stylish, or that this is the only way to be stylish, or, certainly, that I am stylish as a result; it?s just that it?s how I feel comfortable wearing clothes.
4 There is an intrinsic appeal and virtue in quality itself. If someone takes care to produce what they produce, in any walk of life, then even if it comes out a bit wrong, or it?s not for you, you may still appreciate it and attribute value to it accordingly.
5 Fashion should not be too serious. That?s why I like comme des garcons. Sometimes it?s good to look a bit geeky and awkward, and not so polished and dark all the time.
6 Men look good in tailored clothing, since it can absolutely flatter their natural physique if done properly. It can also lo terrible if done badly, and invariably looks terrible if it?s done preppy. In general American men don?t dress well in formal clothing ? see the British and the Italians for better examples of how to do it.
7 Tee shirts that cost $200 are probably always overpriced. But my justification for spending a lot of money on particular clothes is that it?s just what you have to pay to get exactly the thing that you want. Menswear, in particular, is all about details. So anyone can get a shirt, or a cotton shirt, or a slim fitting cotton shirt and so on, but what if you want one that has a particular detail on it that appeals to you ? like, say, high arm holes and very, very slightly flared cuffs. It?s probably not ?worth? another $200 to get those details, but if that?s what you want and there?re no alternatives, what are you going to do? The Junya jacket that I got recently is made out of old tracksuits, re-cut and then garment dyed and washed. The result is, from a distance, not entirely dissimilar to any other double breasted jacket. But there aren?t any other double breasted jackets that are made like that, or indeed that look or feel like that up close. Is it ?worth? what I paid for it in terms of quality, materials, construction?.probably not. But when I saw it, it appealed to me, and I knew that I couldn?t get it anywhere else. So to me, that makes it worth it. Clothes are just boring otherwise.
8 Notwithstanding point 4, I don?t see why men should lust after the equivalent of haute couture for women and assume that there?s an inherent and necessary worth in that type of approach. Maybe it?s an old fashioned (or non-fashionable) notion, but men should look too ?done? and shouldn?t need plissé lining in their suits. I read an interview with Thom Browne in Surface magazine recently where he said the following (paraphrasing here) ? (1) men?s clothes should be grounded in reality; and (2) we?ve just made a suit for men that costs $35,000 made out of pleated silk. Ridiculous no?
9 Following on from the above:
a. I agree with Junya Watanabe about keeping it real;
b. Luxury for luxury?s sake (read cost for cost?s sake) is the single most irritating thing about (men?s) fashion ? nobody needs a $35,000 suit because nobody needs it to be pleated in the first place, which is the thing that gives rise to the ridiculous cost.